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  • Kevin,

     

    e044730 wrote:

     

    Brian,

    I am looking for surface mount LEDs that operate at 200deg C.  Do you know of any?

     

    Kevin

    The survivable junction temperature for an LED die is 125deg C.  Anything beyond this temperature starts to delaminate the junction and the LED will cease to function as intended.  It is extremely unlikely for a solution to be found unless the technology of LED lighting changes.

  • Currently Being Moderated
    31. Jul 28, 2010 3:15 PM (in response to nlarson)
    Upgrading options from HPS or PMH to LED technology
    Hello Brian,

    I am wondering if you can help suggest a LED lighting alternative to the one I already have in our facility. I currently have 8X GE 480 Watt lighting fixtures we use for our main lighting, please see spec below and attached:

    GE 480Volts, 1.1 amps
    lampe watts 4000 LU 60 htz 480 watts
    P400BG25480V
    118C6180G25

    The reason I ask is we are desperately trying to reduce the devices
    that generate heat at the observatory as well as reduce our energy
    consumption in all devices as well.

    I know we could lower the wattage but this will
    will reduce the light levels in the area. I have considered a 750w pulse
    metal halide in the PF1000.
    The energy consumed by the 750w is appox 85 watts compared to 106w with
    the 1000w hps. The light levels for the 750w is appox 68000 lumens vs.
    130000 lumens for the hps. But I would really like to reduce the heat produced and wattage used by converting to LED technology.

    Please let me know if you have any products that you would recommend for replacement lighting fixtures with LED technology?
    Thank you for your time.

    Steve
    Attachments:
  • dear sir,

     

    I required LED leghting design, LED constant current controll circuit

    Please guide me

  • Brian,

     

    I am putting a circuit together of 4-6 leds I'd like to use 4 but can use 6 that runs off of 120v ac and has a light dependent resistor... I am new to electrical and I am trying to fit this inside of something that is 1/8" to 1/4" thick and 6" long 4" wide...I have to make this as cheap as I can too... If you have any suggestions or ideas that will be great..

  • Brian

    I have an RV which has 12V lighting. The fixtures use clear tail light bulbe and they draw lots of current and don't last very long. I have been trying to find a suitable led that works. No luck to date. I think I need cree leds perhabl 2 or 3 emitters and pointed parallel to the mount axis. They should have an emit angle of approx 120 degrees. Do you know of such an animal?

    Thanks

    Val

  • Robert,

     

    Most LEDs run in the range of 2-2.5 volts.  You need to modify the 120V AC power before you let it get to the LEDs.  There are a few ways you can do this:

     

    1. Step down transformer: a simple low power 10:1 (120 down to 12) step down should do the trick.  This could get bulky and bulky tends to go with expensive with transformers.  But this is the simplest method you could employ.   120 -> step dpwn -> photo resistor -> LEDs in series.  LEDs are a DC device, but at this voltage level, getting reverse biased for the negative portion of the signal will likely not be enough to damage them.  The will be off during this negative cycle.

     

    2. Modification to the above: 120V -> step down -> half wave rectification -> photo-resistor -> LEDs in series.

     

    3. This would be the full blown AC to DC converter found in most 12 and 5V power supplies.  Either you find a pre-made power supply or you have to make your own.  The simplest way is to do #2 this way: 120V -> step down -> full wave rectification -> filter capacitors -> photo-resistor -> LEDs in parallel or series (depending on the voltage level you go down to).  This would very well be the costliest option, but you would get a fairly smooth DC voltage near the target voltage level.

     

    Best regards,

    Brian

  • John,

     

    Your best bet is to find pre-made lamp replacement devices.  These have the necessary components internally to allow the LEDs to operate at the necessary voltage levels in certain applications, 12V being yours.

     

    Fortunately, 12V DC applications are the simplest and easy to deal with on your own.  They simply require only a resistor in addition to the LEDs and the packaging.  The simplest case is 3 LEDs in parallel -> resistor -> 12v power.

     

    The harder part is finding an emitter that has enough brightness and a wide enough view angle to fit your needs. Another consideration is how much power is available from the 12V source.  There are some very powerful emitters out there these days.  These emitters, in the LED world, are referred to has high powered.  This is a bit of a misnomer because LEDs are still lower power when compared to incandescent bulbs.  These emitters go from 1W (3V@350mA) to as high as 10W in some cases.  These high power emitters do need some form of thermal management in order to not fail early though.  You can find examples of these products here and here.

     

    Best regards,

    Brian

  • Thanks for the info Brian. My RV has over 400 amp hour of battery available to the house. We have a genset to replace what is used so available DC isnt the issue. I am trying to lessen the load and provide better light while extending the service life of the bulb. All possible with the hipower led's. My lamp fixtures are 1156 bases and are fairly deep (a[[rox 1.5") inside the shade. I have purchased single samples of bulbs with multiple emitters in the end with unacceptible results. Same goes for those lights with emmitters built up along the long axis of the bulb. I had hoped that you would be a fount that steered me to a solution. In the meantime I have purchased a gender changer 1156 to parallel pins and samples of hipower bulbs to try. This is, of course, a lot of trouble for only 12 fixtures, but one I think worth the effort as in our previous home one night with the outside entryway light left on flatted one deep cycle battery with 90 ah capacity. Dont want this with this coach.

  • Brian,

    I am trying to find the correct LEDs to use on a boat for the anchor light. It has to be seen at 360 degrees and at a 1 mile distance. Since boats need it to be on all night saving 12 volt power is a big plus. Do I need 4 each facing a different direction? 12 volt is the power on board.

    Thank you

    Jim

  • Dear Sirs

     

    I would like to use AM OLED colour display 240x320-2.8" in a new design, like for instance Densintron C0283QGLD-T. As far as I now, the said displays are not in production at present. My question is whether thise displays will be available in future or if they are to be replaced with any other similar AM OLED display. What are perspectives for availability of the AM OLED colour displays?

     

    Awaiting your reply

     

    Kind regards

     

    Jacek BaraƄski

  • Jim,

     

    The LEDs that you would want to use in an application like this have a beam angle of about 120-150 degrees.  That means that you will be about half of the original brightness when viewing the LED 120 degrees of axis.  That said, your application is one of safety and identification and needs to be seen from a great distance.  Having 4 LEDs each facing 90 degrees from the next would be a pretty good layout, but I am not sure if you get an optimum output.  If you use 5 LEDs equally space, you could get a spread of 72 degrees.  So there would be better overlap and ensure you had 360 degree visibility from long distances at night.

     

    Best regards.

    Brian

  • Jacek,

     

    AM OLED modules are still quite an immature technology.  They are more widely available today than they were even a year ago, but there is a lot of work still to be done to improve the lifetime.  Certain colors on the OLED still get under 10k hours.  It does not surprise me that you are having trouble getting some for your design.  There are some manufacturers out there that may be able to help you, but you need to be aware of the risks to make sure that it is sensible to fit one into your design, especially when TFT alternatives at that size are so cost effective in comparison.

     

    I hope this answers your questions.

     

    Best regards,

    Brian

  • John,

     

    I agree that what is widely available today in the market place has not quite lived up to the standards to which we've been accustomed in terms of brightness and color quality.  I have seen some pretty good looking products, on paper anyway, coming from Phillips/LumiLEDs and OSRAM/Sylvania in terms of Edison based home light bulb replacements.  Both companies have a track record in both lighting and the LED market.  I haven't been on the lookout for 1156 replacements, but what I have seen from some Chinese companies has not excited me.

     

    I'm sorry I couldn't have steered you into a more specific direction.

  • Currently Being Moderated
    44. Sep 2, 2010 3:06 AM (in response to nlarson)
    LED mounting, directing the beam

    Hi,

     

    I am looking for a way to mount near infra red power LEDs into surfaces such a way that they could directed after the mounting. The LED we are looking to use:

    http://www.epigap-berlin.com/uploads/tx_mvmdprodukte/ELJ-870-629_03.pdf

     

    We are going to install these LEDs into outside environment as marking LEDs for near infra red cameras, one LED every 1 meter or so.

     

    The viewing angle of such led is quite small (approx 17 deg), and we would need to find a robust way to adjust the direction of the lens (left, right, up, down) up to 60 degrees from the mounting position to all directions. Is there a ready made "collar" that cold be used? Any ideas where to look for such LED mounting? Or any other way to direct the beam?

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Vesa

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