Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  OpenHAB


This post continues with my Hardware modification to provide a 'status' indication back from RF switched Outlets, amongst other things


Link to other posts
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Intro
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Electrical
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Outlets
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Planning
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Parts 1
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Sponsor Parts
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon GNUplot
Forget Me Not: eLDERmon Protocol
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking #2
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking #3


Last post I had some frustrations with the receiver not picking up the Status transmitter, yet the Outlet happily responded.

Sadly I'm no better off, despite a suggestion from fvan regarding the preamble.


I haven't given up, but it's not essential to my challenge, and its taking up time that I need for the other parts.



Some people may remember this from the 'Beyond the Phone' Challenge.

DSC_4335.JPG and the internals Internal Explained (Small).JPG


Well some-one asked to borrow it, so I've been sorting out the modifications required.


Now that I have the programmer, the Digispark was replaced with an ATtiny85.

A brightness feature using another Hall Effect switch has been added, and the value stored in the EEPROM.



what does the above have to do with this Challenge?


When I first got the programmer, I managed to 'brick' a couple of ATtinys (a high voltage fuse resetter should recover one).

And in among the various things I tried, I had forgotten about fuse settings.


Since I used the last of the ATtiny's for the Illuminated Beer Tap, I needed to dig out another 'raw' chip.

Sticking it into the programmer, and uploading it late last night, it wouldn't do anything.


I recalled seeing something in this High-Low Tech – Programming an ATtiny w/ Arduino 1.0 about the bootloader.

Configuring the ATtiny to run at 8 MHz (for SoftwareSerial support)

By default, the ATtiny’s run at 1 MHz (the setting used by the unmodified “ATtiny45″, etc. board menu items). You need to do an extra step to configure the microcontroller to run at 8 MHz – necessary for use of the SoftwareSerial library. Once you have the microcontroller connected, select the appropriate item from the Boards menu (e.g. “ATtiny45 (8 MHz)”). Then, run the “Burn Bootloader” command from the Tools menu. This configures the fuse bits of the microcontroller so it runs at 8 MHz. Note that the fuse bits keep their value until you explicitly change them, so you’ll only need to do this step once for each microcontroller. (Note this doesn’t actually burn a bootloader onto the board; you’ll still need to upload new programs using an external programmer.)


I had forgotten to burn the bootloader, and hence it wasn't doing very much at all.

So my side road distraction has saved me from some frustration later, and the exercise has reminded me to add some more to my next element14 order.

Between the Beer Tap, the annoying receiver issue, and the normal domestic distractions, there hasn't been a lot of time for other stuff.




Due to some issues with parts, my sensors needed to be swapped to 868MHz, and thanks to Markus from EnOcean they arrived followed a few days later by the 868Mhz EnOcean Pi.

I have managed to identify all the EnOcean modules, reprogram two STM330's for Humidity by following Pas Home / EOP 350 Basic use


This post by p-brane is also very comprehensive and makes it very easy to see how to attach the sensors, and check or adjust them.

Forget Me Not Design Challenge Post 05: EnOcean EOP-350 Universal Programmer Board



Now that I have some data, it was easier to see where the problems with my menu were.

This isn't the final, but its something to start looking at how I view the data, and make the adjustments.

Menu1.PNG Menu2.PNG

                As this shows the sensor I have allocated for the bedroom temperature is being recognized but is not programmed.


Thanks to fvan post about persistance, I was able to quickly sort out a chart with all the temperatures and left it running overnight.

Menu3.PNG  Menu4.PNG

We live out in the country, and there is no lighting (we have a night light in the hallway) and it was overcast last night, but both the 'Living' and 'Outside' units continued to send data.

I'm impressed by them, and I am questioning if I can use them for my light sensors, rather than an external solution that will need power.



Despite the titles, the 'Outside' unit is sitting on the window sill, and receives the sun directly onto it ... obviously at 0900 and again at 1630.

The 'Living' unit is on the keyboard beside the computer, so might be receiving a little stray heat.


The Humidity sensors (HSM100) are showing figures only, so the next thing is to graph these.


I'm a little surprised by the 30% reading for the 'Living' one as it seems a little low.




Now that I can receive data, I need to program the remainder and get them all working and sending information relative to the design.

Once they are doing that I can sort out the graphing and presentation.


As the intro suggests, my design is for monitoring the environment and well being of the occupant.

The data is more of a trend and compares the inside to the outside conditions, as opposed to absolute figures, or current status.


Next week is a busy period with some other major distractions, so I need to do a push over the next two days to sort out the sensors.

I also need to resolve the mounting arrangement, and unlike the Raspberry Pi camera mount using 'BlueTac', it needs a case.




My calculations show there is 5 weeks left ... which isn't a lot of time.!