eLDERmon  EnOcean Sensors

 

This post follows my last posts on sensors, and integration into openHAB

 

Link to other posts
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Intro
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Electrical
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Outlets
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Planning
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Parts 1
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Sponsor Parts
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon GNUplot
Forget Me Not: eLDERmon Protocol
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking #2
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking #3
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Tim
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Charts
Forget Me Not : LPG Level
eLDERmon EnOcean Sensors
eLDERmon EnOcean Sensors Part 2
eLDERmon EnOcean Sensors Part 3

 

I hit a small snag in my application of the sensors.

While the Movement portion works, the Light sensor doesn't update unless there is a trigger on the WAKE1 input.

 

In all my testing I had been triggering it, hence the reading would change.

 

So I need to keep looking for a profile that will allow the light reading to be transferred.

 

 

Housing

I don't have a 3D printer, and while there is some time to upskill in their use, I can see their value when you have several of the same item to make. ... whether Mrs Finance can ever see the value is another debate.

 

I did settle on using these nice clear plastic boxes  Product LinkProduct Link

Enclosure.PNG

 

2 layers of double sided foam tape, to stick the sensor to the cover or side, and it seems to work.

The solar energy may be a little reduced due to the plastic, but so far they seem to be working.

 

For the Movement detector, I drilled a hole with a hole saw (first one was too big), and then filed it out to suit.

 

PIR_Enclosure large.JPG

      This is the other one, and as you can see it has rotated slightly

 

A quick slot filed in the base allows for the power lead to run the PIR, and the EnOcean sensor is stuck to the top or side to collect the illumination for charging.

 

 

 

Deburring

For anyone that makes holes in metal, or plastic that require the sharp edge removed, I suggest you look to buying one of these.  Deburring ToolDeburring Tool

Noga_Plastic.png

 

I have a larger handle version  UH1000 Deburring HandleUH1000 Deburring Handle  that extends and contain blades inside the handle.

I can assure you, once you've used one of these, you'll never look at using a file for hole deburring again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Receiver

I had always been mindful of the antenna when I assemble this in it's final case.

While the wire whip works and is efficient, it would be compromised inside the enclosure.

 

Enocean have allowed for the connection of a 50 Ohm external antenna, and they detail everything you need to know in the TCM300x manual.

Section 4 (Page 24 ) has some very good information regarding the best orientation for whips, and what to avoid.

TCM300.PNG

 

I scrounged a connector, lead and antenna from a dead GSM modem we had, and added it the EnOcean Pi module.

RPI_Ext_Ant large.JPG

 

Ext_Ant_connector large.JPG

         Photo showing the external antenna connected to EnOcean Pi

 

 

 

The hardest part was removing the socket from the 4 layer board, that was 90% earth plane around the socket ...needless to say, the side cutters got used in the end.

 

Ext_Ant_cable large.JPG

 

A larger socket would have fitted better, but its there and it works well.

 

Just remember that all 1/4 wave antenna rely on the ground plane to work correctly, so if possible add something metallic at 90 degrees to the whip.

quarter_wave_theory.PNG

          snipped from enOcean AN102 application note.

 

EnOcean have a few Application notes for Antenna considerations.

 

AN102_ANTENNA_DESIGN_FEB_11.pdf

AN105_315MHz_ANTENNA_DESIGN_22Dec11.pdf

 

Their sensor modules are tested and approved for use with certain antenna.

This is to ensure the Radio Transmissions when used as a transmitter meet the various regulations inc the radiated power.

 

However for the receiver

Antenna comment.PNG

The more gain you have the better the reception.

 

 

In amongst the notes, they mention some parts to remove.

Depending on your version of TCM310, this capacitor is part of the whip tuning, and should be 12pF.

 

Ext_Ant_Con_close large.JPG

 

This is a crop of the image showing the capacitor ... bear in mind that the pins spacing is 0.1 inch (2.54mm)

Whip_coupling_cap_close large.JPG

 

One of the things about smd, is labelling ....there isn't always a label on the part.

So throwing them into the drawer, with the other bits, isn't going to work with smd.

 

 

 

I'm off to add some more parts to my case

 

Mark