This Roadtest has been done on an "Engineering Release" version of the product so there may be differences to the released product
At the end of my last post on test prints the printer was out of commission with the bowden tube and extruder parting company. CEL responded promptly to my support issue and despite the New Year managed to get me a new tube very rapidly.
Bowden Tube Change
Old tube on the left, new tube with metal ferrule on the right.
The Bowden tube upgrade instructions are straight forward and have an overview and photos. They refer to a couple of other sets of instructions such as removing the head, replacing the belts and removing the side panels. One of my biggest issues was finding a 2mm hex key which was needed to remove the old fitting, luckily I had one with my lathe tools. The head removal instructions could do with clearer reference to unscrewing the finger wheel at the back of the head, you could potentially do some damage if you don't undo that first. Otherwise I did not have any issues with the instructions.
I ran a manual purge before continuing, as was not sure if my 0.8mm nozzle was the cause of the problem, it purged quite easily so perhaps not. I managed to burn finger doing this so won't be doing it again unless absolutely necessary. The manual purge instructions mention to modify the "B" settings but don't specifically mention setting them back. I made a note of the values and set them back to the original values following the purge.
It took several attempts to put the head back on and get it recognised by software, it is a bit fiddly to get the correct alignment so that the pins make connection before you screw the head back in place.
As mentioned in my plan of action I'd got some "challenging" models from Richard Gain who's been working with 3D printers for some time now.
Richard's first mode the Lightbulb model seemed to get stuck on 70%, "Slicing skirt". So I abandoned that but will try to give it another go at some point.
The second model the temple did not cause any problems slicing and auto generated some "support structures" for the peaks above the windows.
The temple model correctly reported that it was too tall for the chamber so I scaled that to 95% and continued. With the default settings this did not stick so I swapped for some custom settings I'd been playing with. That worked better with some filament sticking but it still messed up at the back corner. As an experiment I move the model over to one side to see if it would work better there, that did not help either. I tried the fine and normal default settings and that did not help either.
So I thought I'd try cleaning the bed and bit more thoroughly. I took a tiny amount of "swarfega power" this contains cornmeal and citrus oil so is great at degreasing things but is still gentle. I followed this with the usual alcohol wipe. I tried the default settings with again no luck so moved back to my custom settings. If anything, things seemed worse. I followed this with a quick "cook", 5 minutes with the bed heater at 99°C. Once it was cool again I felt the edge of the bed and it felt quite greasy so I gave it a good scrubbing with some kitchen roll. I followed this with a default "fine" print and stickage was much better but not perfect so I stopped and repeated with the kitchen roll.
I posted a few pictures of work in progress on Twitter. It was at this point that CEL told me I'd got an old heated bed and they were going to send me a new one. So it looks like I'm going to be testing out another set of instructions.
I left the print running for some time and just as I was about to leave to go to bed one of the support structures fell over so I decided to abandon things at this point. Once I'd cracked off the support structures the main print was very good with just a tiny amount of warping in one corner.
I ran it again using the "normal" setting (with no support structures) and it progressed quite well but whilst printing the roof one of the nozzles snagged on the structure and it was pulled off the platform which is a shame as it was printing quite well until that point.
With the help of my daughter we picked a less challenging item to print and despite a rather major failure of the support structures, it actually printed ok. I'll make a note of that for future prints and see if I can adjust the support structure settings.
Fellow road test thundersqueak mentioned that she'd had some problems with the fan. I did not think this applied to my printer but even so I decided to try out the G Code direct entry and ran the following commands in turn to see if the head fan was working correctly. These run the fan at max speed down to a lower speed. Note that you can't run these whilst the head is hot as the printer won't let you go below 50% in that circumstance. The G code syntax does support loops and variables but I've not done that for all long time so don't remember the syntax.
My fan was fine with all of these speeds so I can confirm that there's nothing wrong there.