As mentioned in the previous post the printer had to be sent off for an upgrade. When it came back there were some differences.

 

Firstly the packaging had been updated. The printer comes in a smart Robox bag which I'm sure will nicely double as a dust cover.

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The full set of accessories is also present with the oil and tweezers missing from the original pack now being present.

The bed, head and z-axis are now all clipped in place with some 3D printed clips to keep them from moving in transit. The bed is also different with metal clips holding the bed surface in place.

The paper documentation still has some of the issues mentioned back in my early reports.

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There are some other differences such as decals showing the path for the filament and a screw keeping the electronics panel shut.

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Otherwise the appearance is the same, however I checked the serial numbers for the printer and head and confirmed that those are both different.

 

Before printing I did a purge which was a good thing as it would appear the previous colour was a kind of lilac. At the end of the purge I did spot a small problem. The bed travelled forward so quickly it bounced off the front and the locking catch did not properly disengage.

 

For my first test I picked the Robox Robot model that was supplied on the supplied USB business card. It reported a 4hr print so I abandoned that for the time being and picked something smaller.

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Instead I picked "Support free strong Bolt  by Jack Imakr" and selected to print that at Normal resolution. That had a more reasonable 1hr 18minutes print time.

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The bed adhesion was good and it set off printing. I notice that the initial bed levelling checks for more points on the bed than we previous version of the software. Another thing I spotted was that it was only using the fine nozzle not the 0.8mm one. I'll check with CEL to see if that is normal behaviour.

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Once the nut had finished printing it was interesting to note a distinct slow down in the rate of printing. This is the smarts in the software kicking in as they know that the smaller bolt thread would over heat if printed at a faster speed.

The print went smoothly and there was no warping of the parts in contact with the bed.

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When the bolt was nearly finished the printing stopped and the light started flashing red. The printer status in Automaker when blank. I think that might have been because my laptop was running on batteries. I unplugged the USB and replugged it and the status re-appeared. I could then press play to continue and it printed the rest of the bolt. That happened again after a couple of layers so I plugged in my power and tried again. This time the print continued to the end with no issues. I suspect the best strategy if your laptop is running on batteries is to disconnect it once the printing has started.

 

I waited till the fan had stopped and the nut and bolt could be simply lifted off the bed with no effort.

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The nut screwed onto the bolt easily and securely.

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All in all a very good experience and a top quality print.

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My next challenge is to print some parts that I can accurately measure and to print some gear wheels as originally planned. I'll also give those challenge prints another go, I've got high hopes for success on those.

 

I've managed to find yet another source of gears and that's the McMaster-Carr catalogue. http://makezine.com/2015/02/06/pro-tip-you-can-3d-print-parts-from-mcmaster-carr/