So my Cel Robox is a little sick and I designed some stuff that I wanted to try out. I am working on a robot project and for that I designed the following RPi Case.
As you can see there are slots and a potrusion. There are studs for the RPi to fit and I took a model from Thingverse for reference. The Slots fit a servo motor stand as...
The above will fit the servo motor which can have RPi cam or a ranger sensor or both...
My Robot head looks like...
Until Cel figures out what is wrong(which I feel is gonna be a while since they have stopped replying to my emails) I feel I am high and dry. In the mean while, I urge you guys to print these out as I have attached the files below. The SKP files as always are available on my github if you need em.
I won the Cel Robox as a part of the IoT Holiday Lights Design Challenge and was quite happy to be the owner of a Best In Class 3D Printer. This would be my first 3D printer and had been wanting one for ages. A week after the announcement, I received the Robox... Happy Day. Unaware of what was to come I unboxed it and allocated a place for it on my desk. This is the story of what came next. Here we go...
The Cel Robox is a micro manufacturing Platform. My mother refused to call it a printer as it was misleading and since it produces small objects, the description fits. For the uninitiated, a 3D printer uses molten plastic to assemble models in a layer wise fashion. This involves careful calibration of the surface on which the manufacturing happens as the laws of physics apply and if you can abode by them, you can make magic happen.
Understanding that involves a simple example. Say I want to make a small bridge in plastic. I cannot manufacture a straight line in mid air and hence the software will make 'supports' to allow making the impossible, possible.
The Cel Robox is different from most of the 3D printers out there because...
1. The calibration is supposed to be automatic. Theoretically, You need not 'adjust' the machine. Just plug and play
2. The build platform is enclosed instead of being open. This allows for better temperature control over the environment.
3. It has Dual Extruder which means that there are two thickness at which the printer can spit out plastic. Speed vs accuracy- You select.
4. Smart Reels means that the settings for the materials being used are made available to the printer as soon as you plug in the reel.
Though this sounds magical, it is still a machine and it will give you a reality check once in a while.
When I received, the Robox, it was packaged extra nicely by the great folks at element14. It was a Box within a Box and in the final box was my printer. There was a tape which said "Opened for customs" which meant that Indian Customs has already snuk a peek at my prize. I took out the accessories box and set it aside and went straight for the printer. Beautiful Blue! I had set it on my table and took off the tape on the front. I could not open it since it needed the software instructions for it to unlock the door. I had installed Automaker the day the results were announced hence I plugged everything in the light told me it was ON. Pressing 'Unlock' on the Automaker made it clunk around inside and finally unlock the door. The plastic clips on the x Axis fell off with the movement and I wondered how I could have taken them off without activating anything. The clips are also test prints which are made in the factory using a RED PLA which I later found out. One of them was not a good print and would have made me sweat at the first instance that it had failed a print in factory but then ignorance is a bliss.
As I selected the phone stand from Mini Factory and started the print, I began to wonder what will happen next. I watched in awe as the first strand of PLA came out from the nozzle and then was dragged onto the bed. Something is wrong! I canceled the print and went online to research.
I later found out that there is a 'wiper blade' which is supposed to clean the nozzle but it was missing! Did Customs take it out!? Will it never work!? Horror!
Dr. Defeo assure me that it would be replaced if it had been removed by customs but then I realized that the front had never been opened. I lifted the Robox and as I shifted it side to side, I could hear something... moving.
My suspicions were confirmed by Andy(workshopshed) and I proceeded to take out screws for the electronics panel. Two screws and a gentle push of clips later I was in and saw the "wiper blade" waiting for me. I took the obligatory pictures and respectfully put back the panel making sure nothing else was disturbed. There was a Ferrite Core hanging which I left as is for now since I did not know what purpose the loose core served.(Assembly slacking?)
After restoring the rogue part to it's rightful place I proceeded to reprint the phone stand on draft quality.
Success! A half hour of drooling and awes later I had a hot piece of plastic which resembled the one on my screen. I wish I had taken a video of it...
Fast forward to a few days back. The Cel Robox got no assignments due to a family tragedy a few weeks back and I went into a bad place which ate up a lot of things. On a mental return, i recommissioned the robox to print small robot head for a pending project. I noticed that a part of the first layer was thinner than the others but it was OK since I was printing. A few small prints later, the results began to fail. I needed to print a longish connecting rod and it kept failing. I tried all sorts of calibrations but nothing worked. Finally, I shrunk it down and layed it to as close to the right side as I could. It worked but I knew there was an issue.
I manually inspected the bed to identify abnormalities but could not find any. I looked high and low for remaining pieces of plactic which could be sabotaging my prints but to no avail. I tried manually putting a sheet of aluminium to elevate the left side. Worked once I think but then again failed the next time. I tried using paper sheets to elevate the right side and level the gantry which seemed to have worked at the time. Then I leveled the gantry again without the paper and it almost seems level.
Multiple Nozzle height calibrations and gantry level permutations later, the problem remain.
I have scoured the forums with no useful input and have lodged a complaint with CEL. The CS guy has asked me to check the Bed... twice and I have replied that it is level twice. Same with calibration and all that jazz.
Below is a gallery of images describing the problems in chronological order.
Recalibrated... makes it worse!
Then a bit better
Trying to print a rectangular sheet 190mm x 150mm. Fails at the top left with thick layer at the bottom left. and thin layer at the right. Printed at 50% Speed!
If you think you know what is wrong please so let me know.
This comes later once the issue is resolved...
How to get or make 3d image?
A 3D-printed snack with mushroom spores and sprouts (via Edible Growth)
3D-printing has revolutionized the way we think about design and objects, but it can also do the same for food. Food and concept designer Chloé Rutzerveld has created Edible Growth, a project which aims to make 3D-printed snacks that are tasty and good for you. The snack is composed of a pastry shell made using a paste made of insect flour that can be substituted for a pizza crust type dough. The shell is then 3D-printed on a special design printer created by research organization TNO. Inside the pastry are seeds, mushroom spores, and yeast which will sprout in the course of a few days. The consumer can decide when to harvest the snack depending on how intense they want the flavor and structure.
Rutzerveld's goal for Edible Growth is to not only add nutritious options for 3D-printed food, but to also minimize waste and carbon emissions. On her website she writes “With Edible Growth a lot of unnecessary stages of the food chain disappear with as result a reduction of food waste, food miles and Co2 emission. At the same time the consumer will become more involved and conscious about the food they eat.”
While the snack cannot be printed yet, the project will be on display at several exhibitions this year: at the Munich Creative Business Week in Germany in March, the Noorbrabands Museum in the Netherlands, and at the Foodtopia exhibition at Museum Boerhaave in Leiden, the Netherlands. The snack may look a little strange, but it will change the way we think about creating food.
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Did you know that some of your 3D prints may have partially or completely failed just because of humidity contained in the filament you used? This sort of humidity is invisible to the naked eye, so you probably blamed your print settings, your 3D printer or even doubted your abilities, but all of that may actually not have been the cause of your problem: it was the humid filament.
As we already briefly explained in this article, nylons will saturate with water (i.e. absorb its maximal capacity in water molecules) in only 18 hours being exposed to ambient air. The situation is even worse with specialty filament like PVA (more about PVA in our materials primer post) which is used to create support structures, which are easily dissolved by putting your print in water. PVA is extremely hygroscopic and needs to be stored in a sealed box or a special container. Otherwise, it will attract so much water from the air that it will render it useless. But not only nylons or PVA are concerned, PLA and ABS also attract water from the air, even if it is to a lesser degree.
Just get yourself some vacuum bags. Please do pay attention to only buy the type of bags fitted with a vacuum valve, which permit all air to be vacuumed out with a standard household vacuum cleaner. These vacuum bags are normally intended for storing clothes, linen and such in a place-efficient manner. They normally also provide protection against water, odors, mildew, dust and pests.
The idea behind using those bags is to store your filament spools in an air-free environment (vacuum), so that they cannot absorb any more moisture from the ambient air. As the vacuum in the bag is not absolute, you need a solution to absorb any possible remaining moisture. We recommend to simply add to your bag some silicagel beads, which are very effective moisture absorbents. You can choose to either buy a number of ready-to-use silicagel packs (a.k.a. dry packs), which can be re-used if you dry them in an oven. However, their biggest disadvantage is that you have no way of knowing when the beads are saturated with water, as the (Tyvek) bags they come in are opaque/non-transparent. It is also sometimes difficult to buy them in small numbers at an acceptable price.
Hi, everyone. This passage is mainly written for those who uses 3D printer for the first time.
I want to share some printing results with different slicer settings. Hope this will help some of you.
Printer: Geeetech Acrylic Prusa i3
Filament: PLA 1.75mm (also fits for 1.75mm ABS)
Nozzle diameter: 0.3mm
1. Infill density
15% vs 30%
As you can see in the picture, there are still many holes unfilled with 15% infill density. But the model is full filled with 30% infill density.
2. Skirt loops
0 vs 3
Obvious difference as you can see in the pictures above. Personally, I suggust you'd best print at least 3 loops of skirt, because the filament may not come out from the nozzle immediately.
3. Brim width
0 vs 1
If the brim width is 0, printer will print 100% as same as the stl file. if the brim width is 1, printer will printer another brim, as you can see in the right side of picture.
4. Extrusion of first layer
100% vs 200% vs 400%
In my opinion, the precision of model will decrease as the extrusion width increased.
5. Vertical shells:perimeters(minimum)
2 vs 4
Look at the edge of these 2 models. If perimeter is 2, there are 2 loops of brim on each layer, and the model has a better look.
If you think there's something worth sharing, I will be glad if you leave your advice.
If you find yourself wondering whether 3D printing has a place in the classroom, stop. It is the wrong question to ask. The better question, the one educators are asking themselves, is how do you determine which printer is best suited to learning and teaching given that: 1) the learning curve for most 3D design tools is steep and; 2) the price tag for 3D printers can be daunting.
New Valence Robotics (NVBOTS, Boston, MA) has developed an easy-to-use and easy-to-share 3D printing system based on its NVPro printer. It is said to be the first end-to-end 3D printing solution with automated part removal (the company’s patent-pending robotic arm removes items from the printer as they finish printing, so you can queue up projects from multiple users and print them one after another).
Paired with the NVBOTS cloud-based interface, the NVPro can run continuously 24-7 from any device. A student or teacher can just upload a file or choose from a library of printable content, then send it to be printed. Once done, students can pick up printed objects from the collection bin just as they would pick up printed reports from a laser printer.
The NVPro printer also has “admin” functions so teachers can check jobs before they are printed and manage the printing queue as needed. A live video feed eliminates the need to monitor the printer for hours at a time, so the teacher spends less time babysitting. A print preview feature allows teachers and students to double check models before printing; users can adjust basic parameters to get exactly the part they want.
The notion of 3D printing in a grade school environment seems to me to be a really good idea on a number of levels:
A.J. (Alfonso) Perez is the CEO and one of the four co-founders of New Valence Robotics Corporation. Said Perez: “NVBOTS is focused on helping students bring their ideas to life. Most 3D printing processes are far too cumbersome for students and teachers, prohibiting widespread adoption of a technology that offers a hands-on, interdisciplinary approach to education.”
To go along with its printer, NVBOTS has announced the release of the NV Library, lesson plans that incorporate 3D printable components. Designed to help educators easily integrate 3D Printing into the classroom, the lessons are written in line with the Common Core State Standards and Next Generation Science Standards.
NVBOTS is basically renting rather than selling the device to schools via an annual use subscription. Its Starter Package gives you an NVPrinter, access to its cloud printing interface, access to a 3D printable curriculum, and unlimited users. Filament and additional printer administrators are added on a pay-as-you-go basis. The company offers educational packages to schools, camps, museums, and other institutions. Commercial packages are available for customers who wish to use an NVPrinter for business needs ranging from prototyping to production.
NVBots also has launched a Fundable Rewards campaign in an effort to get 3D printers into schools. Through the program, contributors can donate as little as $5 to help bring an NVBot 3D printer to a school in need. A pledge of $30 gets you an NVBOT T-shirt and 5 NVBOT stickers, with the money used toward providing 3D printing to a school in an underprivileged community. Similarly, a pledge of $100 gets you an NVPrinted sphinx and a copy of the CAD curriculum. People who donate $2,499 will be able to provide one year of 3D printing to the school of their choice with, the company said, a prorated, money-back guarantee.
NVBOTS has shipped its first NVPro printer to Citizen Schools, a nationwide school network dedicated to closing the opportunity gap, financed from the company’s Fundable Rewards campaign. As of this writing, NVBots has exceeded its $100,000 Fundable goal, raising $104,779. In all the company has raised $2 million in funding.
NVBOTS has held pilot programs in three schools in Massachusetts: Newton North High School in Newton, North Central Essential Charter School in Fitchburg, and the Martin Trust Center for Entrepreneurship at its founders’ alma mater, MIT. The company is also partnering with FIRST Robotics, a national organization fostering science, technology and engineering in over 20,000 schools nationwide,
I download stl files of puzzle of China and use my Geeetech 3D printer to print them. Here are the pictures. I could have printed a lager one, but I wanted to look how accurate the printer is first. Looks great! for me, it's accurate enough for a printer costs $299. Next time I will print a colorful one! What's your opinion?