So was I until this morning!
in fact I So wasn`t sure about what to do I kept a Photo record so that I could post on here "What went WRONG!!???? please help!".
turns out that this will be somewhat of a tutorial for others like me (prior to this morning that is), that have put off using these unfriendy packaged devices like the plague, and have made do with alternatives or paid way in excess of what the device is worth just to get it in a DIP package! I know I have certainly done this.
now I DID mention a blog or 2 ago that it`s vital (esp over 40`s) to get your eyes checked regularly, this still holds, not only that but it`s a good idea anyway.
So now armed with suitable glasses, a bench magnifying glass, a few bits that Any EE will have laying around anyway, and a shot of brandy for the nerves, I started work
here are a few pictures of rather poor quality, that will non the less get the point across of the stages I used to get the job done:
there are Other (better) images than this that I will TRY to add at the end of this post, currently my Wi-Fi`s being a$$ and unable upload without errors.
anyway... from Left to right are the stages I used to breakout to DIP, the little grean boards are the breakout boards and only cost a couple of quid for 10 of them, these pictured are 28 pin, I only need 24, so I`ll still solder all the pins in for stability, but Clip one off later as Polarity (orientation feature) so that it can`t be inserted the wrong way around into a socket.
the best way I found was to use a ZIF socket to hold the pins in place so that the board fits nicely in place but also securely, you`ll have to make sure that the board will easily fall off the secured pins held in the socket to avoid needless tension in the solder joints when you plug it into place in a socket later (Solder should Never be used as a Structural element, only to make a good electrical contact).
when you`re happy that all will seat nicely, you then tag with solder the Corner pins.
do these in Diagonal!, pin One, then pin 15, then pin 28, then pin 14. this lessens any stesses too, then release the Zif and tighten again to make sure the rest of the joins wont be under stress.
solder the rest up as normal.
after that then you put the whole device pins 1`st into some anti-static foam and strap it to bench ground.
By the way, I needed to make 4 of these devices anyway, and they`re the 20MHz A to D converters that Nick Gray pointed me towards in one of my posts on here, if you`re interested as to what I`m actually using here for the tutorial/demo/blog/thingy
stage 2 now (insert shot of Brandy mentioned above for the nerves!)
here`s a picture of the 4 stages going Right to Left this time (just to make sure you`re still awake).
as you can see, the anti-static foam with Ground clip, and the device platforms we just made above, securely mounted in the foam, this also helps to adjust soldering angles and keep all the potentialy wobbly bits still when soldering.
leftmost we can see the tiny little chip with some White-tack on the underside of it (the sort used in offices to hold memos and posters to the wall), easily available from any stationary store.
This part took me quite some time to logic out, "super glue" (Methyl Cyano acrylate) Could set instantly and if I was a half pin spacing off I`d be helicaly wound around an inclined plane!, double sided tape would allow much movement, elmers glue takes ages to set and can hold moisture, bubble gum is usless when cold, and the Force... a Jedi I am not
so, a very thin length of white/Blue tack was just right.
then you simply Position the part using you magnifying glass to see it, apply some flux to the corner pins, double check allignment, and solder a corner pin, which ever YOU feel most comfortable with.
at This point you really need to check your allignment again, I had the shakes a little and it turns out all was fine so I did the other 3 remaining corner pins without a problem, but it`s always best to Check before comitting to the next solder joint.
when all 4 corners are done, your chip is "Locked into place" HURRAY!!!!
for the next bit I use a jewelers screwdriver, but a pin or tiny paint brush will do to put a liberal coating of solder flux over the remaining pins and pads, I use Fluxite soldering paste made by Fry (and have done for over 25 years), if you Don`t have or can`t get this, then you`ll have to ask one of our Experts on here what would be a good alternative (I really don`t know the answer to this question).
Now the Hard part to explain, but Easy part to do!
with the board sideways on so that a row/side of pins is Facing you in a line like you can see this: IIIIIIIIIIII solder from Left to right if you`re Right handed. or right to left if you`re Left handed.
that way the Working tip can Only touch or get solder on the pins that don`t have any on yet, and makes it Much less likely for you to solder pins together, and also allows for faster cooling of the IC.
when you`re done, get a really strong magnifier and check the joins up close, re-do if you`ve missed any or aren`t happy with a join.
then you get someones toothbrush that don`t like* and gently scrub the top of the board to remove any solder flux and slag, then re-check the joins.
all being well, you`ll have just made your 1`st SMT/SMD device usable!
now to try get the remaining pics on here for clarity:
this was the the soldering kit I used, and the finished devices (all 96 SMT joints) and yes it IS lead based solder non ROHS compliant, Shameless aren`t I >:D
and a better pic of the Joins made in the DIP stage, lighted from a Single direction:
and that about wraps it up now, so if you Are a bit skeptical about using these chip packages, I would urge you to at least have a go using the Break-out boards and just take it from there, I am free to answer any questions or eleborate on parts that may be a little vague in this post, I may also have it entirely "wrong" from an expert point of view, but I taught myself this morning at least ONE WAY that does work, and wanted to share it.
Love and Gods blessing to you each
* if you Don`t dislike anyone, you can use a Spare toothbrush instead.