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NexGen Flight Simuator

53 posts

Why did I say: "The Earth and its mathematics", because all of the math used in flight, or navigational simulators or SPS(games), are based on the Earth and it's dimensions ~ though the NAV simulation represents but a small fraction of the math used in flight simulators.

220px-Sphere_halve.png
figure 1

Having nothing to do with the definition of Nautical Miles (“nMile”), from ???, we know that at the Earth's equatorial circumference is 21,604.2 [or 21,639 or ???] nMile. From High School Math and Geography, we know that a great circle is defined as any plane which passes through the center of the Earth (if the Earth were a sphere) [see figure 1]. We also know that the shortest distance between any two points of the surface of a spherical Earth must be a great circle route. Now, if the Earth were only a sphere.

From High School Math, we know that a circle has 360ℴ (degrees), So if we divide 21604.2 by 360 or 21604.2n.m. /360 = 60.011 ≈ 60n.m at the equator. Remember that the closer you get to the poles , the longitudinal degrees converge, therefore, the change must be accounted for by using the cosine of the latitude.

 

The following inverse pair of formulas describe the spherical relationships between the difference in distance (Δdist) along a parallel of latitude (lat) corresponding to a difference in longitude (Δlong), and vice-versa.  (The formulas are simply stated here without explanation, but a full explanation of their derivation can be found in the book ‘Astro Navigation Demystified’ ).
  • Δdist = Δlong x Cos(lat), and inversely
  • Δlong = Δdist ÷ Cos(lat)
a-radian.gif
figure 2

 

 

The traditional, historic definition of 1 nMile is 1 minute [= 1/60 degree] of latitude along the Greenwich meridian - thus, by this definition, 60 nMile = 1 degree of latitude; the current standard SI definition: 1 nMile is 1852 meters.

Engineers and Cartographers do use degrees, as anyone who has looked at a map will recognize: latitude and longitude are denoted in degrees, minutes, and seconds; but, we will use radians for angle measurement So what is a radian?

Looking at a circle[figure 2], we get the definition of a Radian as the angle subtended at the center of the circle by an arc of the circumference of the circle whose length is equal to the radius of the circle.

∠XOY = 1 radian, where r = OX = OY = XY

Again from High School Math, we know the total circumference of a circle of radius, r, is 2 ∙ π ∙ r; thus, there are 2 ∙ π Radians in the circumference of a circle.

Since 2 ∙ π radians is equivalent to 360 degrees, a full circle, the relationships are :

  • 1 radian  = 180 / π degrees, and inversely
  • 1 degree = π / 180 radians.

A radian can be written in a variety of ways: 1c, 2 radians, 3r, 4R, 5 ㎭.

The defined and some (approximate) derived relationships between degrees and radians:

360º = 2 ∙ π ㎭

1º = .01745 ㎭

1 ㎭ = 57.2957º

 

Keep Tuned In, More To Come

~~ Cris    

19MAY2016

PS. Thank you, Paul, for all your help!

 

 

24MAY2016 fixed title typo it sb its

You should know by know that I have a pension for things that well blow up or end badly. You can alway go to the German Safty Test video for your giggles.  He now (1:52 - 2:39) draws and explains a schematic of the power supply of this silly thing. For some strange reason, he puts a transformer after a bridge rectifier. Now when I went to grade school (a long, long time ago, when we did "duck and cover")  and you found out that DC will not make a magnet. You just don't create the magnetic lines of force.  Also, NEVER put a cap between transformer windings. Below here is what he should have drawn:

New-Schematic.pngHe gets a big FAIL.

Party-Fowls2.png

See you soon

  Cris H.

Ok, Hold on buckle in. This post will not be pretty.  THE PROBLEM: Is the Arduino's instance on their IDE and a crippled ANSI C/C++ language called Sketch.  By the time, you have written a couple of what they call a Sketchs. They have really messed with you. As the two functions that basically you use are setup() and loop(). My aim here is not to teach you how to write a nice program in ASNI C/C++.

 

harrison@Whirlwind ~ $ ls Tools

2wgs

eclipse-avrQnewB
3wgsFileZilla3Renesas
arduinoGitScintilla
AutoScan-Network-Linux-1.50.shkompozerwingbody.for
BridgePointpoky-fido-13.0.0yoxos
ceasiom100-v4.0qcadqcad-3.9.8-linux-x86_64
eclipse
harrison@Whirlwind ~ $

My Tool Directory

Figure 1

My Goal: Is to show you the light, just to guide you. My "go to" tool for Integrated Software Development Environment is the Eclipse IDE with standard GNU toolchains, running on my LinuxMint 17r2 desktop. I do not work in a M$ environment so I will not distract you with those comments.  I have several specialized versions of Eclipse such as eclipse-avr, which is what I will be talking about. OK, let's get started. Fist we have to download a bunch of stuff. Now I put all my tools in my Tools directory (Figure 1). Use my directory structure it will make you life easier for you, so try it. Note: All downloads are for Linux 64 bit ubuntu distro.


  1. Arduino's IDE
  2. eclipse IDE.
  3. Java Runtime 6 or higher (use your package manager. Synaptic) It comes with the distro.
  4. AVR plugin for eclipse. (Well get this in eclipse itself)
  5. The GNU-AVR toolchain. You will need to execute this command string in your terminal:
    sudo apt-get install gcc-avr binutils-avr gdb-avr avr-libc avrdude

 

ScreenShot.png
Screen Shot of Synaptic Package Monitor
Figure 2

OK let's start in your arduino directory and we will install the arduino-1.6.2-linux64.tar.xz as arduino/arduino-1.62.

Now go to your eclipse-avr directory and will install the eclipse-cpp-mars-R-linux-gtk-x86_64.tar.gz as eclipse/eclipse

If you haven't executed the command to get the GNU-AVR toolchain, then do so now.  Now is a good time to check for the JAVA Runtime 6. If you have 7 you don't need 6 (Figure 2).


Ok, now we have to launch eclipse, click on the eclipse icon in your Tools/eclipse-avr/eclipse/ directory. It will ask you for you default workspace (say yes), you can always change it. DO NOT CHECK THE BOX "Use this as the default and do not ask again." Now the eclipse IDE will launch.  So let's add the AVR plugin. Go to: Help > Install New Software. A new window called Install will open. Near the top is a drop-down box with "work with:" to it's left. Click the box and type http://avr-eclipse.sourceforge.net/updatesite/ then click add. In the pop-up box that appears type AVR Eclipse Plugin into the "name" box (Figure 3).

Screenshot from.eclipse.png

Screen Shot of eclipse Install/Add Repository

Figure 3






Now Please restart your eclipse IDE File > Restart. When eclipse restarts  your eclipse IDE should now look like this (Figure 4):

 

eclipse.avr.tools.png

AVR plug-in installed

Figure 4

 




Keep Tuned In, More To Come
~~ Cris


UPDATE 8/23 Blame this on Mario... He though that NetBeans IDE might also work for the AVR programming. Here's what I got after hours of getting it configured. It looks like I will have to put it out of its misery, and remove a really bad tool.  ~~ CAH


 

Netbeans_Message.png

Utter Failure, What a Joke

Figure 5

mfd.jpg

MPCD Prototype

Figure 1

Well, here we are back at the MPCD, I have blogged twice before about this unit. First, where I got the pin-out for  MPCD and got it working. Then I had to rewire the cable. Well, now it's the third time..


The Interface ( switches ) are arranged in 5 x 4 matrix, so I could just build a matrix, add diodes, and write a scan module. Nah, that's too much work! If you remember my CP-1252/ASN-128 CDU (Figure 2).  I interfaced the CDU  with an Arduino and the PS/2 interface. Good, this will simplify both my hardware development and software, REUSE the PS2 Keyboard code base. This gives me my code-base for both the CDU and the IOP.


The Set Up. Dah rules, there are just a few:

  • Each key switch is connected to the PS2 Keyboard controller an SPST, normally off, momentary push, non-locking switch.
  • Each key switch shall be referenced by its position on the bezel.
  • Each key switch shall be labeled in the code base as KeySwitch.[letter] ie the  busted switch on the bottom as KeySwitch.Q
  • Each key switch shall be lit by an internal LED.
  • Each LED shall be known as KeySwitchLED[letter] the same switch as before would now be KeySwitchLED.Q
  • For reference, all the switches and LEDs shall have two (2) contacts each. My notation ::= is defined as
    • Switch Common ::=  1
    • Switch Active Leg ::=  2
    • LED common ::= 3
    • LED anode ::= 4

Since there are 20 keys, I only need to use three eight-bit, I2C, I/O expanders, the Texas Instruments PCF8574A.Now that means I have 4 extra pins on expander #3. I have a chart (Figure 3) consisting of ASCII output, expander, i/o pin. It is color codedto help keep it straight.

RIGHT

LEFT (top down)RIGHT (top down)TOP (left to rightBOTTOM (left to right)
A.1.POF.1.P5K.2.P2P.2.P7
B.1.P1G.1.P6L.2.P3Q.3.P0
C.1.P2H.1.P7M.2.P4R.3.P1
D.1.P3I.2.P0N.2.P5S.3.P2
E.1.P4J.2.P1O.2.P6T.3.P3
ADDENDUM: It seems that the switches are labeled counter-clockwise from the top-left.

Interface Table
Figure 3

TOP ROW

LEFT TO RIGHT

LEFT ROW

BOTTOM UP

BOTOM ROW

RIGHT TO LEFT

RIGHT ROW

TOP DOWN

S20.IC3.D
LED20.IC.D
S15.IC2.G
LED15.IC5.G
S10.IC2.B
LED10.IC5.B
S1.IC1.A
LED1.IC4.A
S19.IC3.C
LED19.IC.C
S14.IC2.F
LED14.IC5.F
S9.IC2.A
LED9.IC5.A
S2.IC1.B
LED2.IC4.B
S18.IC3.B
LED17.IC6.B
S13.IC2.E
LED13.IC.5.E
S8.IC1.H
LED8.IC4.H
S3.IC1.C
LED3.IC4.C
S17.IC3.A
LED17.IC6.A
S12.IC2.D
LED12.IC5.D
S7.IC1.G
LED7.IC4.G
S4.IC1.D
LED4.IC4.D
S16.IC2.H
LED16.IC5.H
S11.IC2.C
LED11.IC5.C
S6.IC1.F
LED6.IC4.F
S5.IC1.E
LED5.IC4.E
cp-1252.jpg?w=300&h=254

CP-1252/ASN-128 CDU

Figure 2

 

The Communication. You should remember that I consider the Arduino rather stupid. So his function in life is to pass key presses to an IOP. The IOP has to generate the appropriate video and light the appropriate keys. So I want to make this device independent.  So let's get on with the Key LED processing.

 

First let's write the function "MFD_LED"  it will have two arguments: led_ID (char), Led_State (int)

and then the "LedDriver" it will have three arguments: expander_ID (int), Port_Number (int), led_state (int)

 

// 8574A address range 0x38 to 0x4F
// defines
#define EXPANDER1 0x38
#define EXPANDER2 0x39
#define EXPANDER3 0x3A
#define EXPANDER4 0x3C 
#define EXPANDER5 0x3E
#define EXPANDER6 0x41

 

MPCD20size.jpg
Current Style Bezel
Figure 4
// prototypes

LedDriver( int expander_ID, int PortNumber, int led_state );
void MFD_LED( char led_ID , int led_state );  // the void might be changed to an int.

// Control the LEDs.
MFD_LED( char led_ID , int led_state ){
if(led_state => A && led_state <= H){
  LedDriver( EXPANDER4, PortNumber, led_state );}
if(led_state => I && led_state <= P){
  LedDriver( EXPANDER5, PortNumber, led_state);}
if(led_state => Q && led_state <= T){
  LedDriver( EXPANDER6, PortNumber, led_state );}
if(led_state > T){
    // error or special.}

 

LedDriver( int expander_ID, int Port_Number, int led_state ){
// This function is to wrap the 3 Arduino's Wire Libary calls.
Wire.beginTransmission(expander_ID);  //Begin the transmission to PCF8574A
Wire.send(led_state);                //Send the data to PCF8574A
Wire.endTransmission();              //End the Transmission
}


SOFTWARE: In fact, I will be using three (3) different software libraries:

  1. Ps2 Keyboard library that just outputs ASCII characters (no IBM scan codes).
  2. Wire library that talks to the PCF8574A I/O Expanders. 3 output for the LEDs and one input for some switches.
  3. Serial library that lets the Arduino communicate with the world via a USB virtual serial connection.


Stay Tuned In, More To Come,

~~Cris


DSCN1055.JPG

My Lab

Figure 1

Ok, Not quite everything I do makes some form of loose flying and then landing crud, dust, FOD or whatever you want to call it. I'm going to refer to it as FOD or Foreign Object Debris. In your shop, FOD is something that you want to manage and or mitigate. Personally I live small 2 bedroom apartment, and I don't have a lot of room. My lab is about 11 x 13 feet one wall is just storage. Sometimes you can't even walk around,  and I alway  have too much going on at once.

Problem: 'So how do I control FOD in this mess??'

Oreck.JPG
Oreck XL
Figure 2

So the first thing that I acquired from the local Goodwill was this Oreck XL handheld, which cleaned the desktop ok. But this solution does not go far enough.

custom_engineered_dust_collection_system_large.jpg
Way Too Big!
Figure 3

Figure 3 is what I want, but way too big, and costs big bucks. So I need to do this on no budget or almost for free.


Solution: And it's going to be cheap!

Dust collection systems work on cyclonic action or a cyclone in a can. You need a source of clean air, got it (figure 2).  What about a can? I went to Home Depot and got a 5 gallon "Homer Buckett" and lid (Figure 4).


fa44ab91-78eb-4e86-8928-995abe6aa993_400.jpg
Figure 4

First you will need to drill a hole in the center top of your bucket to accept your vacuum's hose.  This will have to be air tight.

Second you will need to drill or cut out an oval hole in the side of the bucket. This hole should be  below the strengthening rings.

More to come!

~~CAH

phoenixcomm

NexGen: Rudder Pedals

Posted by phoenixcomm Jul 31, 2015

Well, you know you need rudder pedals to perform coordinated turns, and differential braking. I used to have this solved with a  Thrustmaster  RCS (Figure 1), But in moving etc they got strayed, misplaced or stolen. Sometime in 2011 I came across this hot mess (Figure 2) using two (2) air cylinders cross plumbed, ensures device centered.

RCS.jpgpedals.jpgCHpedals.jpgDSCN0701.JPG

Thrustmaster RCS

Figure 1

A good idea, bad implementation.

Figure 2

CH pedals

Figure 3

CH pedal internal

Figure 4

Athough the pedals are fixed (not good) the idea is brilliant. The other day while scrounging around at a local Goodwill store, I came up with a set of CH Products pedals (Figure 3). So here is the plan...

  THE ANALYSIS>The end unit should look somewhat like figure 1. That is one bar anchored in the center on a pivot. This has a mounting plate on either end mounted with a pivot. then the top can just be a rod that is also mounted on the plates and has a center pivot as well. This gives us the movement that we require for aircraft pedals.The CH pedals will be affixed to plates so the end results resembles Figure 1. The CH pedals cable only has 4 wires and will have to be replaced by a standard DB-25 cable that I have laying around. The unit will need 3 axis, two for brakes (one each pedal) and a center for the rudder

DSCN0702.JPGMFG-Crosswind-Pedals.png

Close Up of the Mount

Figure 5

Crosswind pedals

Figure 6

If you look at figure 4 you will see the pedal sits on a post coming up through from the base the pedal pivots on the white arm. This could be replaced with a hunk of Delrin® plastic or some soft brass.  The two pivot points are a pair of sealed bearings. Figure 6 is a picture of the new kid on the block.

8/1/2015 In response to mcb1. Figures 7 and 8 are the real things from a Beechcraft. You will notice that each pedal is attached to a bar with an arm. You will also notice the brake cylinder mounted to pedal as well. this is for differential breaking. In Figure 9 you can clearly see them with the guts out of the way.  You now can see clearly the yellow actuator arms. These would be connected to a clevis on the tail. So you now can use one pot or two. Now this is where you could mount the two air cylinders, connected to each other (Figure 2). The two air cylinders would keep the pedals centered, and aligned without the need for the second cross bars (Figures 1, 6).


 

Beach.1.JPGBeach.2.JPGBeach.3.JPG

Beechcraft  Pedals: Top Right

Figure 7

Beechcraft Pedals: Top Rear

Figure 8

Beechcraft Pedals: Stripped

Figure 9

 

Beach.4.JPGBeach.5.JPG

Beechcraft Pedals: with BellCrank

Figure 10

Beechcraft Pedals: Showing the Geometry

Figure 11

8/2/2015 Ok I just posted the blurb below and found these two photos (Figures 10, 11). This will make my life easier. I can mount my Rudder Potentiometer via the center of the Bellcrank. For auto centering, I can mount my two air cylinders on each end of the  Bellcrank.  I hope this clears thing us for the non-aircraft types,  and my self..  lol

~~Cris

Ok this is more of a bather than a post. Buckle up the ride will not be smooth! The US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in April 8, 2005 said it should be on all cars by 2008 and now trucks.. ok thats cool. Commercial Aircraft have had them for years BC (Before Cars) .. b727wheel.jpgBut in between those 2 camps there is a huge Black Hole. Whatever  you wish to call the tires, ie: rubber, skins, sneakers, and others. Tires are the most ignored, or understood part of your plane.

Your cars tires life is pretty easy compared to an aircraft tire. You could use your car's tires to take off.. But landing is a whole nother kettle of fish. You, that is your wheels hit the runway at 70 to 200  knots. Try this stunt with car tires and they will shred.  And then you most likely will die. Game over. No do overs. Why is this you ask? Well it has to do with several factors: strong centrifugal forces,  and Traction Waves. Every time you land your tires distort. The forces on a Boeing 747 is about 6,000G. This has to do with the weight of the plane and the speed that you touch down.. Even a light aircraft landing at 100kn you tires will take a wallop.

Analysis:  Ok now what do we need? Ok lets use a car's TPMS as a model.

  1. We need the sensor in the tire with a transponder.. The data that we need and would like to capture:
    • Tire Pressure.. most of the damage is to under inflation.
    • Tire Temperature..
    • Tire mounted accelerometers to generate X and Y This tell you the amount of defection in the tire.
  2. We need a rf receiver at 428Mhz to acquire the data
  3. We need a rf transmitter near each wheel sending 127Khz to be the initiator.
  4. The receiver should send data to the embedded microprocessor via a bus, ie. CAN, TCPIP  etc.
  5. The display system and master caution will receive its data from the embedded microprocessor via a bus.


DSCN0956.JPG
Function Generator
Image 1

This is one of thoughs things that just comes along. It is a B&K Precision 3010 Function Generator, it was 5 bucks at the local Goodwill. It did not have a power cord set and I'm never going to find one (image 2).

DSCN0958.JPG

Power Plug not NEMA

Image 2

hack1.jpeg

Hack #1

Image 3

hack2.jpeg

Hack #2

Image 4

This connector is not the standard oval, its smaller. Over time I have seen some terrible hacks, good ol' Southern Engineering, Rigging, etc (please see images 3 and 4). But I'm getting that cart before the horse again.. So I guess I will have to power this up with my suicide cord set. After soldering a chassis power connector, and then plugging it in. It's Alive!!

The images below where taken with my Tektronix 475A Oscilloscope
DSCN0959.JPGDSCN0960.JPGDSCN0961.JPGDSCN0962.JPG

TTL Output

Image 5

Square Wave

Image 6

Sine Wave

Image 7

Triangle Wave

Image 8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Now I will have to find a power connector.

 

  Stay Tuned In, More to Come

  ~~ Cris

  B&K 3010 Function Generator - User Guide

  B&K 3010 Function Generator - Schematics


UPDATE 7/29/2105: I just had one of my computers die on me. It's power supply died. I normally toss the case and keep the wire with the connectors on them (good for hook-up wire). Well, you know the saying: my software had a bug in it. They say: "that we are doomed to repeat history"; it's kind of what happened to me.  As I was pulling the dead power supply for is parts and the donation of its power cord connector. It seems that the reason that my power supply died was because of the BUG.
DSCN0987.JPGDSCN0986.JPGDSCN0988.JPG

This Power Supply Died From a Bug

image 9

Bigger Bug

Image 10

Donor Power Supply Plug

Image 11

You had that pile of transistors and you didn't know if they worked? Well I know I have... So today while rummaging around

DSCN0918.JPG
Before we started
Image 1

in my local pawn shop I spoted this old tester in one of the stores bins. I was labled in Spanish no less.  It was marked $14.95, but I got it for 5 bucks.. When I opened it up, I found out was rather crude, and nothing to write home about.

 

DSCN0919.JPGold-transistor-tester.png

The Guts No Blood yet

Image 2

The Schematic
Image 3

 

THE PLAN: I would like to have a more modern device.. maybe even with a USB interface to my laptop. I know this may seem a little grandiose. But what the hey. I could even have a Arduino buried in there as well.. And besides I know I can't get that battery any more! I would also like to test other types of devices.


Keep Tuned In, More To Come

Cris ~~


Hey here is a block diagram of the Plan!!

blockdiagram.png
Block Diagram of tester
Image 4

The neat part of this tester is that I can test  unknown and unlabelled parts. The test leads can be put on any leads, so there is no wrong way to test or install a part. The I2C Bus is connected to a Arduino Mega which will do the lifting. .


Ok what in the world of Microsoft and Windows and Linux is NFS and why do I need it... Really I'm very happy with SMB or CIFS,  or Samba (reversed engineered SMB) so why change to NFS??

  1. SMB is a kludge, its what you see is maybe what you get.
  2. and it really is not Open...
  3. CIFS is single threaded which makes it SLOW!
  4. and NFS just works, and it's dam fast!!

 

History:

NFS is a distributed file system protocol originally developed by Sun Microsystems in 1984, allowing a user on a client computer to access files over a network much like local storage is accessed. NFS, like many other protocols, builds on the Open Network Computing Remote Procedure Call (RPC) system. The Network File System is an open standard defined in RFCs, allowing anyone to implement the protocol.  There have been several versions with version 4 the latest.


My Network is comprised of several Linux Boxes on a 1 Gigabit Network (Player, Whirlwind, RSS), I also have a slower 100 Megabit Backbone which has my slower stuff (WiFi, network printers, etc.  I also have an additional 100 Megabit Network for NexGen my Simulator.  All of the Boxes are LinuxMint Ver 17r2. For this HowTo I will only concern ourselves with version 4.


How I Did It:

I am currently using Whirlwind as my desktop and file server.  There are a lot of Howto's out there and they all have there part but here is mine so here goes.


First I have to get NFS on my server.  You have you choice of using Synaptic or the terminal.. I will use and show you the terminal.

$ sudo apt-get install nfs-kernel-server nfs-common

Then edit your exports file. The follow 4 lines are my "exports", remember they will not be the same.

$ sudo vi /etc/exports

/mnt/MyData/public    192.168.1.1/24(rw,async,no_root_squash,subtree_check)

/mnt/MyMedia/Music  192.168.1.1/24(ro,async,no_root_squash,subtree_check)

/mnt/MyMedia/media  192.168.1.1/24(ro,async,no_root_squash,subtree_check)

/mnt/MyMedia/p2p      192.168.1.1/24(rw,async,no_root_squash,subtree_check)

 

so let explain my magic:

  • /mnt/......  Where my filesystem is mounted
  • 192.168.1.1/24  Who I want to share it with.. in this case I am sharing it with everybody hence the /24
  • ro or rw    Read Only or Read Write
  • async    allows the NFS server to violate the NFS protocol and reply to requests before any changes made by that request have been committed to stable storage (e.g. disc drive).
  • no_root_squash  Very often, it is not desirable that the root user on a client machine is also treated as root when accessing files on the NFS server. To this end, uid 0 is normally mapped to a different id: the so-called anonymous or nobody uid. This mode of operation (called 'root squashing') is the default, and can be turned off with no_root_squash.
  • subtree_check is also used to make sure that files inside directories to which only root has access can only be accessed if the filesystem is exported with no_root_squash even if the file itself allows more general access.


Now restart the NFS server

$ sudo service nfs-kernel-server start


You can test you service and exports by using this:

$ showmount -e

Export list for Whirlwind:

/mnt/MyData/public 192.168.1.1/24

/mnt/MyMedia/p2p  192.168.1.1/24

/mnt/MyMedia/media 192.168.1.1/24

/mnt/MyMedia/Music 192.168.1.1/24

 

Your Done!!


Now the Client.... (RSS)

install just the client.

$ sudo apt-get-install nfs-common


you can use showmount -e whirlwind on the client to show the servers exports but if you use name on your machines you must update your /etc/hosts file.... (good idea)

$ sudo /etc/hosts

192.168.1.23  Whirlwind


now try a mount command. I used my /mnt/  I added two directories under /mnt/ public and music. so here is what you need..

$ sudo mount -t nfs whirlwind:/mnt/MyData/public /mnt/public

now look in /mnt/public for your shares.. Got them. Good now one last thing.. Let make them mount when the machine starts.. cool


$ sudo vi /etc/fstab

Whirlwind:/mnt/MyData/public  /mnt/public

whirlwind:/mnt/MyMedia/Music /mnt/music

 

I think im done...

Cris H.

PS 17JUNE2015 I made a small error! in the client machines you must add NFS to the fstab

>>>>>>>> Whirlwind:/mnt/MyData/Public     /mnt/public     NFS

 

BTW if you want to mount your files on a local window 7 box, its not that hard Mount your NFS share on Windows 7

stock_photo.jpgWell it looks like I found a working 5 volt supply that works!   It's a Lambda LXS-A-5-0V (a brick, and this is stock photo off the web)..  So I wanted to test the the power supply. So I grabbed  the Fuel Load Indicator, that I tore apart in my blog post NexGen: Hacking the Fuel Load Indicator.

I hooked my +5 to pin 16 of the display and Ground on pin 17 and I got the following:

Manufacturer: LAMBDA
Model Number: LXS-A-5-0V
Output Voltage: 0 - 5 vdc
Output Current: 4 amps


Upon Power Up I got a "No Data" message (Figure 2)
Depressing the right hand switch to the test position (Figure 3) then (Figure 4) and then back to (Figure 1)


So at least I now have a starting point using an arduino.
The header from the display board is a 15x2 or 30 pin header ( 0.10" x 0.10" centers)

 

DSCN0140.JPGDSCN0141.JPGDSCN0142.JPG
Figure 2
"No Data" Message
Figure 3
Self Test I
Figure 4
Self Test Message II


This is what I will need to run the displays:

  • 8 data lines
  • 5 Address Lines
  • 7 Control Lines ( CLS, CLK, WRRDCE, FL*,  RST )
  • This is 19 20 pins + 5 more for the switches
  • 24 25 pins Total

Note:  FL* This pin is for accessing flash ram and will not be used.


Here is a link to a similar project http://www.nycresistor.com/2010/05/30/working-with-the-hdsp-2111/. The big difference between the hdsp-2111 and my hdsp-2131 is that the 2111 is a plastic part and my part is a hirel glass sealed over ceramic. Both, the 2111 and the 2131 share the same I/O; so a lot of my work is done. But they are using a Arduino Diecimila and I plan on using a Arduino Meg 2560 which has much more I/O pins which means I would not have to use the shift register. Also my two (2)  hdsp-2131 displays are already mounted on a PCB that I will not modify.  The hdsp display series data bus is bidirectional.

 

MnemonicU1U2J1
Power
Vcc16+1628, 30
GND17+173
Logic GND18+184
Data Bus
D011+115
D112+128
D213+1310
D314+147
D419+192
D520+206
D621+211
D7222224[U1]    22[U2]
Address Bus
A028+2811
A129+299
A230+3012
A331+3127, 29
A432+3227, 29
Controls
CLS1114[U1]    15[U2]
CLK2223[U1]    21[U2]
WR3+316
CE4420[U1]    17[U2]
RST5525[U1]    26[U2]
RD6619[U1]    18[U2]
FL272713

The two way of showing this data, firs is laid out buy looking at the pins of J1.

The other way of showing this data  by grouping functions together by their mnemonic.

 

MnemonicJ1 pinsToToTo
D61U1-21U2-21
D42U1-19U2-19
GND display3U1-17U2-17
GND logic4U1-18U2-18
D05U1-11U2-11
D56U1-20U2-20
D37U1-14U2-14
D18U1-12U2-12
A19U1-29U2-29
D210U1-13U2-13
A011U1-28U2-28
A212U1-30U2-30
FL - Not Used13U1-27U2-27
CLS.114U1-1
CLS.215U2-1
WR16U1-23U2-3
CE.217U2-4
RD.2 - Not Used18U2-6
RD.1 - Not Used19U1-6
CE.120U1-4
D7.222U2-22
CLK.221U2-2
CLK.123U1-2
D7.124U1-22
RST.125U1-5
RST.226U2-5
A3 & A427U1-31U2-3129
Vcc28U1-16U2-1630
A3 & A429U1-32U2-3227
Vcc30U1-16U2-1628

    Keep Tuned In, More To Come

    ~~Cris

  BTW: It seems I can't add in the above list;

  8 + 5 + 7 = 20 != 19

  There for the next number should be 25 Total

  ~~Cris    6/4/15

DSCN0188.JPGI guess, I am just a glutton for punishment, so my next victim is a HP Harrison 6284A power supply.  It seams in good shape so it should have been a safe bet. The only thing that I saw wrong was that the power switch lamp and push/lens cap was missing not a big deal as a small screwdriver will turn it on... So I hooked it up and put a meter on it.. The output is adjustable.  The meter pegged so I though I was just on the wrong scale, but fickle is the equipment gods, and as I changed the scales the meter stayed where it was..  After messing about on the Internet I found a copy of the manual at Bama ( Boat Anchor Manual Archive ).

 

Manufacture:

HP / Agilent / Keysight

Model Number:HP 6284A
HARRISON DIVISION
Serial Number:5M0442
Output Voltage:0 - 20vdc
Output Current:0 - 30 amps

Well, Ok. Here are the inside shots that you all want. The first thing i'm going to is throw the sides into the dishwasher...  The second thing is to clean the pc board to get the crap off the board (figure 3 & 4). Third thing is to check the strapping at the back of the unit, before I dig into the power supply.


The strapping seams ok..  Looks like I will have to trouble shoot the meter circuit (Figure 5 )... But that will wait for  another day



Stay Tuned, More To Come..

~~ Cris H

 

DSCN0189.JPGDSCN0190.JPGDSCN0191.JPG
Figure 2
Top View
Figure 3
Bottom View
Figure 4
Flux Contamination
DSCN0192.JPGIntentionally left blankIntentionally left blank
Figure 5
Meter Circuit

DSCN0165.JPGWell the next victim is my LAMBDA LP 411 FM.. This needs the ER.. Picture 1 tells the tale.  I need a new meter new binding post (black) I should have that at least. Also the current meter needs both a new lens, and scale the meter itself looks ok.  The meter looks like a standard 1.5 inch GE movement (ebay).  The current limiter shaft is bent, I don't know if that can be fixed.   By looking at the yellow triangle it said 81/82  but the orange tag says: 1972/73.

 

Manufacture:

LAMBDA
Melvile, NY

Model Number: LP 411 FM
Serial Number: 8539
Output Voltage:0 - 20vdc
Output Current: .8 to 1.2 depending on temp.

So what do you know the thing powered up. Man i'm impressed. I have to open it up to fix it. So instead of being asked for interior shots here they are:

 

DSCN0166.JPGDSCN0171.JPG
Figure 2
The Guts
Figure 3
The rear of the front panel dropped.

 

Ok lets get to it.

  • Bad News for the black binding post.. no gots, so I just ordered one of ebay from China.
  • It looks like i'm going luck out again. The dam panels bent. Not the pots shaft! That means an entire tare down of the front panels. There are really two of them. The pretty face and the backer.
  • Just as I thought it is a GE meter 18811LCL1AAN.  The meter movement is undamaged.   now to just find a donor lens and scale. (Figure 4)
  • Stupid me .... remember to unplug the dam thing.... I had to reset the breaker, and most likely replace a blown fuse or two.
  • Next lets take the panel apart to straighten the back gray panel (lots of little nuts and bolts) (Figure 5)
  • Wow the back plate is really tweaked (Figure 6), I will have to put this on hold till I can get the panel restored.

 

DSCN0175.JPGDSCN0184.JPGDSCN0183.JPG

Figure 4
Broken Meter

Figure 5
Front Panel Disassembled

Figure 6
Steel Rule across panelOuch..



Keep Tuned in; More to Come.

~~ Cris H.



Shopping List:
Black Binding Post ... (INSTOCK)check-mark-3-16.green.png
Meter Lenscheck-mark-3-16.red.png
Meter Scalecheck-mark-3-16.red.png
Some Fuses... LOLcheck-mark-3-16.red.png

DSCN0160.JPGWell here we are now trying to get some power supply working for NexGen. Well I have luging this beast around for more than a few years, and I need some juice for my projects. It seems that my Kepco JQE-6-10 output stage took a dump. BTW if you have a service manual for this unit please let me know..  I would love to make a copy.

So... This one was on top of the pile... ok I plugged it in and nothing.. So I checked the fuses and they were both missing so I tossed in the two fuses and bang its... alive.

Here are the specs:

Manufacture:Electronic Measurements Co of Red Bank  Eatontown, NJ
Model:

Programmable Regatran
TR035-0.5

Serial Number:3G 4456
Output Voltage:0 - 36vdc
Output Current:?

 

Just a note: If you look at the controls (TL, BR) and the binding posts you will notice that they are bakelite.

This unit BTW if you look at the serial number you will notice the date code: 44 week of 1956 so this unit was built in the last week of October or the first week of November, which makes this power supply is 58 years old! and still works!!



Keep tuned in more to come;

~~ Cris H.


BTW: at UTA (University at Arlington) we have a maker lab in the Library.. So I can replace the knobs. The only thing that I have to pay for is the nylon.

As Requested:

 

DSCN0161.JPGDSCN0162.JPGDSCN0658.JPG

Figure 2

Top View

Figure 3

Bottom View

Figure 4

Close Up of the large capacitor.


PS 30Jan2015

I have just inserted picture #4. The Capacitor has a 6-63 date stamp! 2015 -1963 = 52 so about 52 years old...

SLZ9145.jpg
Figure 1
NomenclatureNumber
TYPEH6L
Teledyne / Part NumberSLZ9145
National Stock Number6610-00-960-7863
Boeing / 737 / Part Number

I have had this VSI for about 1 year now and I couldn't sleep so I thought it would be good time to tackle this. This VSI (Figure 1)  was built for Boeing on a 737; Type H6L. This unit works on air pressure, so I will have to modify it.

 

THE DISASSEMBLY: The case is drawn aluminum with a cast bezel. We will dismantle the unit. Please pay close attention the pretty pictures.

THE RIGHT WAYTHE WRONG WAY
DSCN0157.JPGDSCN0158.JPG
UPDATE!! I thought about this and decided to take these two (2) pictures
  1. After you remove the 8 screws surrounding the bezel, there are small reddish washers don't loose them as we need them again. The rear case  will come off.
  2. Now remove the 4 sets of screws around the base. This will allow the bezel to be removed.
  3. Now remove the the 3 screws holding on the air cambers. You will also have to cut the wire.
  4. Now remove the the 3 screws holding on the small disk that the wire went through.
  5. Now turn it over so you are looking at the face.
  6. The glass cover are two pieces of glass. Remove them with a razor knife.
  7. Gently remove the pointer.
  8. Remove the 2 small screws holding on the dial
  9. Remove the Black retainer.
  10. Slide out the unit.
  11. Remove the 2 screws on the top of the frame holding on the fork.
  12. Loosen the small screw on the coupling
  13. Remove the nut on the side. and Slide out the Biro Chamber.
  14. Sit back and smile where done for now! 

 

In Part II I will be running this indicator from a servo.

 

Keep Tuned in More to Come!

~~Cris

 

DSCN0143.JPG
Figure 2 - Step 1
DSCN0145.JPG
Figure 3 - Step 2A
DSCN0146.JPG
Figure 4
DSCN0147.JPG
Figure 5 - Step 3
DSCN0148.JPG
Figure 6 - Step 4
DSCN0149.JPG
Figure 7
DSCN0150.JPG
Figure 8 - Step 9
DSCN0151.JPG
Figure 9
DSCN0152.JPG
Figure 10

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