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Function Generator
Image 1

This is one of thoughs things that just comes along. It is a B&K Precision 3010 Function Generator, it was 5 bucks at the local Goodwill. It did not have a power cord set and I'm never going to find one (image 2).


Power Plug not NEMA

Image 2


Hack #1

Image 3


Hack #2

Image 4

This connector is not the standard oval, its smaller. Over time I have seen some terrible hacks, good ol' Southern Engineering, Rigging, etc (please see images 3 and 4). But I'm getting that cart before the horse again.. So I guess I will have to power this up with my suicide cord set. After soldering a chassis power connector, and then plugging it in. It's Alive!!

The images below where taken with my Tektronix 475A Oscilloscope

TTL Output

Image 5

Square Wave

Image 6

Sine Wave

Image 7

Triangle Wave

Image 8










Now I will have to find a power connector.


  Stay Tuned In, More to Come

  ~~ Cris

  B&K 3010 Function Generator - User Guide

  B&K 3010 Function Generator - Schematics

UPDATE 7/29/2105: I just had one of my computers die on me. It's power supply died. I normally toss the case and keep the wire with the connectors on them (good for hook-up wire). Well, you know the saying: my software had a bug in it. They say: "that we are doomed to repeat history"; it's kind of what happened to me.  As I was pulling the dead power supply for is parts and the donation of its power cord connector. It seems that the reason that my power supply died was because of the BUG.

This Power Supply Died From a Bug

image 9

Bigger Bug

Image 10

Donor Power Supply Plug

Image 11

You had that pile of transistors and you didn't know if they worked? Well I know I have... So today while rummaging around

Before we started
Image 1

in my local pawn shop I spoted this old tester in one of the stores bins. I was labled in Spanish no less.  It was marked $14.95, but I got it for 5 bucks.. When I opened it up, I found out was rather crude, and nothing to write home about.



The Guts No Blood yet

Image 2

The Schematic
Image 3


THE PLAN: I would like to have a more modern device.. maybe even with a USB interface to my laptop. I know this may seem a little grandiose. But what the hey. I could even have a Arduino buried in there as well.. And besides I know I can't get that battery any more! I would also like to test other types of devices.

Keep Tuned In, More To Come

Cris ~~

Hey here is a block diagram of the Plan!!

Block Diagram of tester
Image 4

The neat part of this tester is that I can test  unknown and unlabelled parts. The test leads can be put on any leads, so there is no wrong way to test or install a part. The I2C Bus is connected to a Arduino Mega which will do the lifting. .

Ok what in the world of Microsoft and Windows and Linux is NFS and why do I need it... Really I'm very happy with SMB or CIFS,  or Samba (reversed engineered SMB) so why change to NFS??

  1. SMB is a kludge, its what you see is maybe what you get.
  2. and it really is not Open...
  3. CIFS is single threaded which makes it SLOW!
  4. and NFS just works, and it's dam fast!!



NFS is a distributed file system protocol originally developed by Sun Microsystems in 1984, allowing a user on a client computer to access files over a network much like local storage is accessed. NFS, like many other protocols, builds on the Open Network Computing Remote Procedure Call (RPC) system. The Network File System is an open standard defined in RFCs, allowing anyone to implement the protocol.  There have been several versions with version 4 the latest.


My Network is comprised of several Linux Boxes on a 1 Gigabit Network (Player, Whirlwind, RSS), I also have a slower 100 Megabit Backbone which has my slower stuff (WiFi, network printers, etc.  I also have an additional 100 Megabit Network for NexGen my Simulator.  All of the Boxes are LinuxMint Ver 17r2. For this HowTo I will only concern ourselves with version 4.


How I Did It:

I am currently using Whirlwind as my desktop and file server.  There are a lot of Howto's out there and they all have there part but here is mine so here goes.


First I have to get NFS on my server.  You have you choice of using Synaptic or the terminal.. I will use and show you the terminal.

$ sudo apt-get install nfs-kernel-server nfs-common

Then edit your exports file. The follow 4 lines are my "exports", remember they will not be the same.

$ sudo vi /etc/exports






so let explain my magic:

  • /mnt/......  Where my filesystem is mounted
  •  Who I want to share it with.. in this case I am sharing it with everybody hence the /24
  • ro or rw    Read Only or Read Write
  • async    allows the NFS server to violate the NFS protocol and reply to requests before any changes made by that request have been committed to stable storage (e.g. disc drive).
  • no_root_squash  Very often, it is not desirable that the root user on a client machine is also treated as root when accessing files on the NFS server. To this end, uid 0 is normally mapped to a different id: the so-called anonymous or nobody uid. This mode of operation (called 'root squashing') is the default, and can be turned off with no_root_squash.
  • subtree_check is also used to make sure that files inside directories to which only root has access can only be accessed if the filesystem is exported with no_root_squash even if the file itself allows more general access.


Now restart the NFS server

$ sudo service nfs-kernel-server start


You can test you service and exports by using this:

$ showmount -e

Export list for Whirlwind:






Your Done!!


Now the Client.... (RSS)

install just the client.

$ sudo apt-get-install nfs-common  $ sudo apt-get install nfs-common


you can use showmount -e whirlwind on the client to show the servers exports but if you use name on your machines you must update your /etc/hosts file.... (good idea)

$ sudo /etc/hosts  Whirlwind


now try a mount command. I used my /mnt/  I added two directories under /mnt/ public and music. so here is what you need..

$ sudo mount -t nfs whirlwind:/mnt/MyData/public /mnt/public

now look in /mnt/public for your shares.. Got them. Good now one last thing.. Let make them mount when the machine starts.. cool


$ sudo vi /etc/fstab

Whirlwind:/mnt/MyData/public  /mnt/public

whirlwind:/mnt/MyMedia/Music /mnt/music


I think im done...

Cris H.

PS 17JUNE2015 I made a small error! in the client machines you must add NFS to the fstab

>>>>>>>> Whirlwind:/mnt/MyData/Public     /mnt/public     NFS


PS 21OCT2016 I made a small error! in the line: $ sudo apt-get-install nfs-common

>>>>>>>   $ sudo apt-get install nfs-common


BTW if you want to mount your files on a local window 7 box, its not that hard Mount your NFS share on Windows 7

stock_photo.jpgWell it looks like I found a working 5 volt supply that works!   It's a Lambda LXS-A-5-0V (a brick, and this is stock photo off the web)..  So I wanted to test the the power supply. So I grabbed  the Fuel Load Indicator, that I tore apart in my blog post NexGen: Hacking the Fuel Load Indicator.

I hooked my +5 to pin 16 of the display and Ground on pin 17 and I got the following:

Manufacturer: LAMBDA
Model Number: LXS-A-5-0V
Output Voltage: 0 - 5 vdc
Output Current: 4 amps

Upon Power Up I got a "No Data" message (Figure 2)
Depressing the right hand switch to the test position (Figure 3) then (Figure 4) and then back to (Figure 1)

So at least I now have a starting point using an arduino.
The header from the display board is a 15x2 or 30 pin header ( 0.10" x 0.10" centers)


Figure 2
"No Data" Message
Figure 3
Self Test I
Figure 4
Self Test Message II

This is what I will need to run the displays:

  • 8 data lines
  • 5 Address Lines
  • 7 Control Lines ( CLS, CLK, WRRDCE, FL*,  RST )
  • This is 19 20 pins + 5 more for the switches
  • 24 25 pins Total

Note:  FL* This pin is for accessing flash ram and will not be used.

Here is a link to a similar project The big difference between the hdsp-2111 and my hdsp-2131 is that the 2111 is a plastic part and my part is a hirel glass sealed over ceramic. Both, the 2111 and the 2131 share the same I/O; so a lot of my work is done. But they are using a Arduino Diecimila and I plan on using a Arduino Meg 2560 which has much more I/O pins which means I would not have to use the shift register. Also my two (2)  hdsp-2131 displays are already mounted on a PCB that I will not modify.  The hdsp display series data bus is bidirectional.


Vcc16+1628, 30
Logic GND18+184
Data Bus
D7222224[U1]    22[U2]
Address Bus
A331+3127, 29
A432+3227, 29
CLS1114[U1]    15[U2]
CLK2223[U1]    21[U2]
CE4420[U1]    17[U2]
RST5525[U1]    26[U2]
RD6619[U1]    18[U2]

The two way of showing this data, firs is laid out buy looking at the pins of J1.

The other way of showing this data  by grouping functions together by their mnemonic.


MnemonicJ1 pinsToToTo
GND display3U1-17U2-17
GND logic4U1-18U2-18
FL - Not Used13U1-27U2-27
RD.2 - Not Used18U2-6
RD.1 - Not Used19U1-6
A3 & A427U1-31U2-3129
A3 & A429U1-32U2-3227

    Keep Tuned In, More To Come


  BTW: It seems I can't add in the above list;

  8 + 5 + 7 = 20 != 19

  There for the next number should be 25 Total

  ~~Cris    6/4/15

DSCN0188.JPGI guess, I am just a glutton for punishment, so my next victim is a HP Harrison 6284A power supply.  It seams in good shape so it should have been a safe bet. The only thing that I saw wrong was that the power switch lamp and push/lens cap was missing not a big deal as a small screwdriver will turn it on... So I hooked it up and put a meter on it.. The output is adjustable.  The meter pegged so I though I was just on the wrong scale, but fickle is the equipment gods, and as I changed the scales the meter stayed where it was..  After messing about on the Internet I found a copy of the manual at Bama ( Boat Anchor Manual Archive ).



HP / Agilent / Keysight

Model Number:HP 6284A
Serial Number:5M0442
Output Voltage:0 - 20vdc
Output Current:0 - 30 amps

Well, Ok. Here are the inside shots that you all want. The first thing i'm going to is throw the sides into the dishwasher...  The second thing is to clean the pc board to get the crap off the board (figure 3 & 4). Third thing is to check the strapping at the back of the unit, before I dig into the power supply.

The strapping seams ok..  Looks like I will have to trouble shoot the meter circuit (Figure 5 )... But that will wait for  another day

Stay Tuned, More To Come..

~~ Cris H


Figure 2
Top View
Figure 3
Bottom View
Figure 4
Flux Contamination
DSCN0192.JPGIntentionally left blankIntentionally left blank
Figure 5
Meter Circuit

DSCN0165.JPGWell the next victim is my LAMBDA LP 411 FM.. This needs the ER.. Picture 1 tells the tale.  I need a new meter new binding post (black) I should have that at least. Also the current meter needs both a new lens, and scale the meter itself looks ok.  The meter looks like a standard 1.5 inch GE movement (ebay).  The current limiter shaft is bent, I don't know if that can be fixed.   By looking at the yellow triangle it said 81/82  but the orange tag says: 1972/73.



Melvile, NY

Model Number: LP 411 FM
Serial Number: 8539
Output Voltage:0 - 20vdc
Output Current: .8 to 1.2 depending on temp.

So what do you know the thing powered up. Man i'm impressed. I have to open it up to fix it. So instead of being asked for interior shots here they are:


Figure 2
The Guts
Figure 3
The rear of the front panel dropped.


Ok lets get to it.

  • Bad News for the black binding post.. no gots, so I just ordered one of ebay from China.
  • It looks like i'm going luck out again. The dam panels bent. Not the pots shaft! That means an entire tare down of the front panels. There are really two of them. The pretty face and the backer.
  • Just as I thought it is a GE meter 18811LCL1AAN.  The meter movement is undamaged.   now to just find a donor lens and scale. (Figure 4)
  • Stupid me .... remember to unplug the dam thing.... I had to reset the breaker, and most likely replace a blown fuse or two.
  • Next lets take the panel apart to straighten the back gray panel (lots of little nuts and bolts) (Figure 5)
  • Wow the back plate is really tweaked (Figure 6), I will have to put this on hold till I can get the panel restored.



Figure 4
Broken Meter

Figure 5
Front Panel Disassembled

Figure 6
Steel Rule across panelOuch..

Keep Tuned in; More to Come.

~~ Cris H.

Shopping List:
Black Binding Post ... (INSTOCK)
Some Fuses...

DSCN0160.JPGWell here we are now trying to get some power supply working for NexGen. Well I have luging this beast around for more than a few years, and I need some juice for my projects. It seems that my Kepco JQE-6-10 output stage took a dump. BTW if you have a service manual for this unit please let me know..  I would love to make a copy.

So... This one was on top of the pile... ok I plugged it in and nothing.. So I checked the fuses and they were both missing so I tossed in the two fuses and bang its... alive.

Here are the specs:

Manufacture:Electronic Measurements Co of Red Bank  Eatontown, NJ

Programmable Regatran

Serial Number:3G 4456
Output Voltage:0 - 36vdc
Output Current:?


Just a note: If you look at the controls (TL, BR) and the binding posts you will notice that they are bakelite.

This unit BTW if you look at the serial number you will notice the date code: 44 week of 1956 so this unit was built in the last week of October or the first week of November, which makes this power supply is 58 years old! and still works!!

Keep tuned in more to come;

~~ Cris H.

BTW: at UTA (University at Arlington) we have a maker lab in the Library.. So I can replace the knobs. The only thing that I have to pay for is the nylon.

As Requested:



Figure 2

Top View

Figure 3

Bottom View

Figure 4

Close Up of the large capacitor.

PS 30Jan2015

I have just inserted picture #4. The Capacitor has a 6-63 date stamp! 2015 -1963 = 52 so about 52 years old...

Figure 1
Teledyne / Part NumberSLZ9145
National Stock Number6610-00-960-7863
Boeing / 737 / Part Number

I have had this VSI for about 1 year now and I couldn't sleep so I thought it would be good time to tackle this. This VSI (Figure 1)  was built for Boeing on a 737; Type H6L. This unit works on air pressure, so I will have to modify it.


THE DISASSEMBLY: The case is drawn aluminum with a cast bezel. We will dismantle the unit. Please pay close attention the pretty pictures.

UPDATE!! I thought about this and decided to take these two (2) pictures
  1. After you remove the 8 screws surrounding the bezel, there are small reddish washers don't loose them as we need them again. The rear case  will come off.
  2. Now remove the 4 sets of screws around the base. This will allow the bezel to be removed.
  3. Now remove the the 3 screws holding on the air cambers. You will also have to cut the wire.
  4. Now remove the the 3 screws holding on the small disk that the wire went through.
  5. Now turn it over so you are looking at the face.
  6. The glass cover are two pieces of glass. Remove them with a razor knife.
  7. Gently remove the pointer.
  8. Remove the 2 small screws holding on the dial
  9. Remove the Black retainer.
  10. Slide out the unit.
  11. Remove the 2 screws on the top of the frame holding on the fork.
  12. Loosen the small screw on the coupling
  13. Remove the nut on the side. and Slide out the Biro Chamber.
  14. Sit back and smile where done for now! 


In Part II I will be running this indicator from a servo.


Keep Tuned in More to Come!



Figure 2 - Step 1
Figure 3 - Step 2A
Figure 4
Figure 5 - Step 3
Figure 6 - Step 4
Figure 7
Figure 8 - Step 9
Figure 9
Figure 10
ManufacturePart NumberMiss
Parker Hannifin219-100-001
Innovative Solutions9D-00659-1SW 7H-659-79419
Manufacture & Part Numbers
Table 1

I have had this Fuel Quantity Indicator  (Figure 1) for about 6 months or so. I have been stonewalled from ISI from getting any info. During Cockpit-Fest it was suggested that I cut the unit apart. Well this unit is solder sealed and I don't have a fire ring.. So out came my Multi-Max (Figure 8) and put a metal blade on it.. and well it took about an hour to get it apart and its not pretty, but the job is done.

Well first by the numbers (see table 1): Parker Hannifin  made the unit. for Innovative Solutions got it and well good luck. In the bottom there is a PGA85 (Pin Grid Array) and I took off the label, and the part is a  5M-00497-1 which is a private label, and a date code of 9416.  More Work!


THE ANALYSIS: The unit consists of three (3) boards:

Part NumbersDescription
8E-01117Power Supply Board
8E-01082-18Logic Board
8E-01081Display Board
Part Numbers & Descriptions
Table 2
  • The back ie Power Supply (Figure 4): Has a LM-109 5vdc regulator + a bridge and some caps.
  • The middle ie Logic Board (Figure 5): Has a large EE??? part and a MAX690MJA a microprocessor supervisor
  • The front ie the Display Board (Figure 6): Has two (2) HDSP-2131TXV  each display has 8 chars 5mm high of 5 x 7 chars each and has a 30 pin head connector.

If I can get the power supply board out of the housing I can tag in 5vdc from an external power supply to power up this unit...


Keep Tuned In More To Come!!

~~Cris H.


UPDATE: Shabaz informed me that IC manufactures sometimes put the part number in the silicon.... and he was right..

Our Mystery part is a Motorola MC68HC711  which is a MC68HC11 with a security feature..

Fuel Repeater  / Indicator
Figure 1
Fuel Repeater  / Indicator
Figure 2
Front Half after the cut
Figure 3
Rear Half after the cut
Figure 4
Logic Card
Figure 5
HP Smart Display Card
Figure 6
Just Cut on the Line
Figure 7
Dremel Multi-Max with Steel Blade
Figure 8

sonic-cruiser-tiny.jpgWell here we are again, I know your going to ask me why am I making a post just for this dam cable???

The cable that had a short in it.
Figure 1

THE ANALYSIS: As you may know back in February I said "It looks like there was a whisker shorting out the Blue.. GROAN: Ok the fix is painful. I have to cut down the shrink wrap and then the electrical tape and two layers of shrink wrap over the Blue it self." So being lazy I did repair the cable by opening the green layer and the re-soldered the blue but I "rigged it" LOL. At the end of August I went to Cockpit Fest  with the Cable as you guessed I never fixed the *** Cable, so its time to do something about it..  I really want this to be pro. so I just cut the cable in half time to start over and just do it right.


  1. Cut the cable in twain and re-strip the wires. Please see Figure 3 for the proper tools.
  2. Obtain the proper  solder splice (see Figure 2).  They can be found on eBay with the search term "solder sleeve".  You will notice that it is a heat shrink tube with solder in it. Here is a nice little video that demonstrates the proper technique for applying the but splice. (Video below). Please see NASA-STD-8739.4 March 2011 page 83 #19.8
  3. First we have to slide a new piece of shrink wrap on the cable.  This will be used as the outer sheath.
  4. We will also side a piece of shrink wrap on each one of the Red, Green and Blue..
    1. Now use the solder sleeves to solder the three (3) drive wires  (coax centers).
    2. Now solder the three (3) shields (don't need but splices).
    3. Now install the  yellow  shrink tubing  over the shields
  5. Now use the solder sleeves to solder the two (2) sync lines together.
  6. Also solder any other remaining wires as per Table 1.
  7. shrink any tubing over the other connections.'
  8. Pull into place the outer shrink tube and shrink it.
Solder Sleeve
Figure 2


Keep Tuned in.. More To Come!




SignalsPS3 CableVGA Cable









Soldering Guide
Table 1


Mechanical StripperThermal Strippers
Wire Strippers
Figure 3



I will be posting pics of the steps here...



The Cable


PS3 cable


VGA cable


Cable trim is too short

Proper installation of solder sleeve

(4.1, 4.2)


Shrink tube over the solder sleeve and shield





Pulling the outer sleeve over the wire splices

(sorry for the blurry pic)


sonic-cruiser-tiny.jpgWell it has been a long time coming so here is the embedded software design.

RSS block diagram
Figure 1.

The Plan: The Arduino must send and receive information asynchronously, via the byte serial USB host connection, on Port 1.

This connection

  1. It must receive and respond to the RSS_IOP commands
  2. It must send data to the RSS_IOP when something changes
  3. Basicly you need 1 Arduino Mega per tuner. It has lots of Digital I/O, and its cheap!
  4. The protocol must be easy and expandable for all types of radios.

Since a physical radio can have multiple tuners (Figure 1), you must use the command lsusb() to display the information of the devices. As this is different for every radio and each

computer is different at this time you must manage this in  the RSS_IOP software. This Protocol has three (3) Byte Message.


The Protocol: There are two sides to the Protocol and I will describe both sides. This is documented fully in the Protocol Manual.

Basic RSS_IOP Discriminants

Read Frequency * .01


Read Frequency *.1


Read Frequency * 1


Read Frequency * 10


Read Frequency * 100


Write Dial Lamp


Write Aux Meter

Write Aux Lamp

The RSS_IOP can send the following commands:

Message Format to the Interface Processor













  1. Read Tuner Radio Frequency
  2. Read Tuner Power Switch
  3. Read Radio Special Switches (see notes per radio)
  4. Write Tuner Radio Dial Lamp(s)
  5. Write Radio Special Lamp(s) TBD (see notes per radio)
  6. Write Power Flags in Instruments TBD (see notes per radio)
  7. Write Meter Output on Radio(s) & in Instruments TBD (see notes per radio)

The Interface Processor (Arduino) can send the following messages:

(only when something changes,) ie. No Change, No Message.

During the RSS_IOP start up, the Interface Processor will send a start message "!!!" followed by initial values of all that tuners Discriminants and payloads.

Basic Interface Processor Discriminants



Frequency * .01


Frequency * .1


Frequency * 1


Frequency * 10


Frequency * 100


Aux Meter

(see notes per radio)

Aux Switches(see notes per radio)

Message Format










  1. Frequency

  2. Switches, Power
  3. Meter, Aux, TBD (see notes per radio)
  4. Switches, Aux, TBD  (see notes per radio)

The Software:  There are several steps in writing this software. As C programer I like to put things in a .h file so the file is C3436A.h the body of the my code is in C3436.ino  the reason why your use multiple files is to logically manage your program.  ( As of yet I can not show my finished code - CAH)

  Keep tuned in; More to Come!!

~~~~ Cris

PS!! I will be at Cockpit Fest 2014 August 29, 30, 31!! @ Lancaster Airport, So if you live in the Dallas, Fort Worth Metroplex come down and say hello....

PS. I wish to thank Paul Z. for the review of this document. 8/2/2014

sonic-cruiser-tiny.jpgThe Plan Part 3: Ok the interface card is now wired up and hooked to a computer so we get on checking the software switch states. So I hooked my arduino to my radio interface, added the jumpers and plugged in the interface cable and then generated a truth table from that data (see figures 1,  2).

int frac[] = {20, 5, 8, 2, 16, 4, 1, 9, 10, 18 };


int huns[20][2] = {

{13, 0}, {9, 108},{11, 109},

{5, 110}, {27, 111}, {16, 112},

{30, 113}, {2, 114}, {23, 115},

{8, 116}, {28, 117}, {1, 118},

{7, 119}, {4, 120}, {24, 121},

{20, 122}, {6, 123}, {18, 124},

{17, 125}, {10, 126}};

Figure 1
Radio Truth Tables

In truth tables I have declared two arrays the first is frac and is a single dimension array. The array contents of the array are the values and the index times 10 is what we display. In the second array is called huns and is a two dimension array with the second element the value to be displayed.


Figure 2
Radio Interface
Figure 3


I have included a little video clip of the radio interface which shows an overview of interface. I have also uploaded the pin-out of the C-3436A for your giggles, or edification as I could never locate one for myself.

The next steps is to get this talking to the RSS_IOP and with the information that is on the NavGroup broadcast and with line of slight calculations play the stations morse code identifier..

  Keep Tuned In, More to Come!

~~ Cris H.

THE PLAN (Step 2):  Well the first thing we need is a piece of Vector Board, about 4" x 4"  or about 10 x 10 cm ( Do not buy any cheap crap off of ebay.. It must be FR-4, glass-epoxy ).

Vector Board before for clean up
Figure 1

I need cut 2 holes in the board about  2" x .5" (Figure 1), or you can use a DB25 punch if you are lucky enough to own one, $$$$.  I cut the two holes with my Dremel mult-tool, but it is very hard to control, I now have to clean it up, any way, with my Dremel. If I had the right blade for the rotary tool it would have been easier. Then I need to mount the adapter plate(s)(Figure 2) to the Vector Board and the DB25(s) to them as well.


DB25 Adapter Plate

Figure 2

The next thing is to mount the three 16 pin IC sockets, a little dab of hot-glue, or crazy glue and that should do it. But remember to leave room for the 4 pin Molex connector  that is common on disk drives, and fans, Molex Part Number 15-24-4441, Molex Specification Sheet, and a relay that control the panel lamps.

I  really like this relay module I found on ebay (Figure 3) and the cool part is I don't have to build it. There is all so a 2 channel module as well. BTW they are cheaper than I can build
Now the only this to do is break out the Wire Wrap stuff and wire it up (Figure 4).

  Keep Tuned In, More To Come
~~ Cris H.

BTW Long to finish got sick anyway just finished now on to the next part.

I am having the adapter plates made  for me. Let me know if you think you can use them. I might get a small run of 100 made. My guess is they will be about 5 to 8 bucks each.

1 Channel Isolated 5V Relay Module

Figure 3

Interface board finished *
* The power connector, nor is the relay wired in yet..
Figure 4

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  One more note: I have found some food containers used in the food business NR2402P-BLK my interface bolts right in. Oh yes the white dots in the photos in figure 4 are nylon 4-40 screws and nuts.

THE ANALYSIS: The radio head C-3436A was used in the 1960's. It is used for both VOR and ILS. It has three (3) ARC connectors in the rear. I had built some cables for the unit a few ago but then never did anything with it.  So I need to test the RSS so I pulled out this unit. I am going use the term "Hacking" loosely as I am not going to damage the Control Set in any way. 

Radio Control Set
Figure 1
The Radio Control Set Opened for Testing
Figure 2
Radio Control Set Interface
Figure 3


1. The first thing I had to do was ring out the connectors (Please see Figure 2) as I did not have the schematics as the TM 11-1520-211-35 Google Book  did not scan them properly. ( I have attached a sheet of the result of the ring out but as yet I do not have the weighting for each line.)

2. The next thing is to build an interface board to go between the Control Set, and an Arduino Mega2560. The board will have two (2) DB25F jacks to plug into my cables.  There are also two (3) 16 pin IC Sockets. As this interface board is a one off I will Wire-Wrap it.  There will be most likely a small relay to handle the lighting, and a Molex 4-pin connector for the power.

3. The next thing is to jumper the board to the Arduino via the rear header (Digital I/O Pins 21 through 53).

4. At this time I am not going to worry about the following items: Lights, Volume, nor Squelch.

  Keep tuned in, more to come!


sonic-cruiser-tiny.jpgSo what am I supposed to say; A time ago, in a different space, and time, I started designing  a new canard aircraft, The Phoenix2000. In New Orleans before I move to Dallas, Tx so it has to be over 20 years ago. My original web site for it has a date of 1998 but that's about 10 years after the fact. I had built a dual channel, redundant FADEC, Full Authority Digital Engine Control, connected to FORD Taurus 3.0 engine. This means no mixture controls, you don't have to worry about things like, EGT, mixture, temperature, etc.  Our EAA adviser in our chapter built RVs, and basically did not want to look at anything Digital Fly By Wire!! ( I left the EAA 96?)  Then in 2004 i found other crazies at SimPits(2k4) There have been the ups and downs. The biggest down was when I lost my house, and had to toss most of the aircraft stuff away..

My NOTAM #1 (Jan2K5) basicly laid out my problems with current flight simulators; Keyboard Decoders, Monolithic, No real communication (with the simulator/model).  This is where my simulator grew from.

My NOTAM #2 (Jun2K5) I created a demo program which fly's a Great Circle Route  between any two points. in a compressed time frame. So a flight from JFK to DFW is only a few seconds.. One small note and apologies to C purists, this demo was written in PERL. If you don't know PERL dose not have any fixed point notation it is all floating point.

So for the past few years I have been a living stable in a apartment, and I am back at work with several projects in the lab at one time.. current projects are:CDU_-_Simulator_Interface.png

    • embedded processors for a few radios heads.
    • Morse Code Generator
    • FAA DB
    • Communication between the IOP and the radio heads
    • communication between the SIMULATOR and the NAV_IOP and RSS_IOP  Ethernet & Protocols.

AND now I want to show it off at Cockpit Fest 2014!!  Groan!!

  Keep tuned in, more to come!